Engineering Lathes

[Munroast]

Just come into possession of a couple of lathes but I don't know a great deal about them, hoping someone here does.

Here is the cross slide and the brass item in the centre is what the cross slide screws into. This brass boss thing is split and my guess is that it sort of works as a locking nut, when I adjust the gap the screw will change from tight to slack - my guess is that you adjust it to remove back-lash from the winding lever. Problem is I feel there is something missing, a spring or spacer ? any thoughts?

And also, the four locking grub screws that adjust the chocks against the slideway. When adjusting these, is there any particular order that they are done ?

 

[Burnerman]

You are correct - the bronze threaded bush has those screws to allow for backlash in the screw thread, and may need adjustment occasionally. I don't think anything is missing.
The four screws are to adjust the lathe gib strips which go between the saddle and the bed - they may be brass, bronze or simply steel.
Adjustment of these really depends on the wear pattern of the saddles - it's the cast iron that wears and obviously if the saddle is used constantly over a particular area then most wear will occur there. Adjustment of the allen screws isn't in any particular order, but you may find that the saddle has tight spots if you overdo things!
You can see the oil channels cast into the lathe bed which need wiping out occasionally....there aren't any parts that you can over lube here.
The headstock may have Stauffer screw down greasers to lube the bearings, depending on the make.
The lathe looks in splendid condition, lucky man!
John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Here is the cross slide and the brass item in the centre is what the cross slide screws into. This brass boss thing is split and my guess is that it sort of works as a locking nut, when I adjust the gap the screw will change from tight to slack - my guess is that you adjust it to remove back-lash from the winding lever. Problem is I feel there is something missing, a spring or spacer ? any thoughts?

You are correct in that it is there to remove back-lash. It is adjusted, to absorb the play in the thread, as the thread wears in use. There isn't intended to be a spring between the parts, it would serve no purpose. It needs to be adjusted, so free play is minimised, but there should be no tight spots anywhere along the thread.

 

[Burnerman]

Guess the make Harry?
Colchester, maybe?
John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Guess the make Harry?
Colchester, maybe?
John

Yep, looks like it.

 

[Munroast]

Thanks for the replies, it just seams to me that something should be there, to stop the screws working loose? although when adjusted correctly the screws are not loose. Anyway great to know there is not a bit missing.

The gibs are steel and my understanding is that it is a heavy oil used not grease. and yes there is little nipple things for forcing the oil in, I will take some pics and maybe you could advise on what sort of oi gun is used.

And NO, it is not a Colchester!

 

[Burnerman]

The correct gib lube is actually Shell Tellus oil which is a hydraulic brew.....in real life a thin engine oil will be fine, using a trigger oil can to inject it in.
Headstock bearings use grease, typically and shouldn’t be over packed.
John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks for the replies, it just seams to me that something should be there, to stop the screws working loose? although when adjusted correctly the screws are not loose. Anyway great to know there is not a bit missing.

You tighten one pair of screws, against the opposite pair, so it all locks together. It's quite tricky to get it just so.

 

[Munroast]

Guess the make Harry?
Colchester, maybe?
John

No, Walco with a hefty milling machine on the top of it - the whole thing weighs in at 35 stone, even taking it to bits it was difficult to bring it back.

Nice machine though, from a hobbiest engineer, so well looked after and obviously no where near the use of a macine on the shop floor. We just need to learn how to use it.

You tighten one pair of screws, against the opposite pair, so it all locks together. It's quite tricky to get it just so.

Only one pair of screws and they are very slack until the big travelling screw is in place, unless the pair work loose it should work.

The correct gib lube is actually Shell Tellus oil which is a hydraulic brew.....in real life a thin engine oil will be fine, using a trigger oil can to inject it in.
Headstock bearings use grease, typically and shouldn’t be over packed.
John

aye, we've bought a hydraulic 30 for most bits, and a sliding bed oil (thick 90 grade stuff) or the slideways.

whats the difference between a straight 30 sae 4 stroke oil and a 30 grade hydraulic ?

 

[Burnerman]

I'm no chemist but originally the main difference between hydraulic oil and mineral is that the hydraulic stuff is vegetable based - so oil seals in hydraulic rams and the like wouldn't be affected. In early days, some lubes were better for spinning applications (bearings etc) and others for sliding as in pistons or whatever. Castrol claimed to have overcome this many years ago with their 'liquid engineering' formula which was best for both - or maybe that's just sales patter! They also considered a variety of metals in their science - white metal being of significant interest to them.
Why it was recommended for lathes is anyone's guess, but the low viscosity meant that it would flow where needed and carry any metallic particles with it as it was used. In your case I'm sure it won't make any difference.
I'm not familiar with Warco machinery, having cut my teeth on Boxford, Colchester and Harrison products but they look very professional machines.
(When schools were closing, Colchester Bantam lathes were turning over for £400 or less - little more than scrap value).
John

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm not familiar with Warco machinery, having cut my teeth on Boxford, Colchester and Harrison products but they look very professional machines.

Warco were certainly around in the early 1980s, based somewhere in Berkshire, quite near to Reading. At that time they were importing engineering kit, but I don't know where from, although I do know that their woodworking saw benches, bandsaws and lathes of that period were pretty much all Taiwanese. Their stuff used to be painted dark blue from memory

I remember Colchester Lathes from my school days, sometimes going to school from Hythe station a hundred yards from their offices and training centre. It's now a supermarket (Tesco?). In the metalworking shop at school we had a couple of Harrison lathes - beautiful pieces of kit and a delight to use (when they let you) with Norton gearboxes

 

[Burnerman]

If your machine came with it's own cabinet stand Mr. M I can't stress enough how important it is to keep the stand completely level before the lathe is bolted to it......even the slightest deviation can cause the lathe bed to twist which gives all sorts of binding issues with the saddles.
Unlikely I know considering the cast sections of it, but definitely it happens.
John

 

[Burnerman]

Warco were certainly around in the early 1980s, based somewhere in Berkshire, quite near to Reading. At that time they were importing engineering kit, but I don't know where from, although I do know that their woodworking saw benches, bandsaws and lathes of that period were pretty much all Taiwanese. Their stuff used to be painted dark blue from memory

I remember Colchester Lathes from my school days, sometimes going to school from Hythe station a hundred yards from their offices and training centre. It's now a supermarket (Tesco?). In the metalworking shop at school we had a couple of Harrison lathes - beautiful pieces of kit and a delight to use (when they let you) with Norton gearboxes

The early Harrisons had cone clutches that would occasionally engage themselves if not set up correctly
Often with unfortunate results
I spent quite some time developing the use of Denford CNC milling machines in schools - brilliant they were too.
I quickly found that I was much too slow in getting the best from them so promoted others to take over from me
John

 

[Munroast]

If your machine came with it's own cabinet stand Mr. M I can't stress enough how important it is to keep the stand completely level before the lathe is bolted to it......even the slightest deviation can cause the lathe bed to twist which gives all sorts of binding issues with the saddles.
Unlikely I know considering the cast sections of it, but definitely it happens.
John

The warco only had the 3 mounting bolts to the cabinet - I guess this is to stop people twisting the bed when tightening it down.
The Myford attaches with 4 bolts, however, in amongst all the accessories was a super precision engineers spirit level, (a mm in 100m type accuracy) very interesting getting it perfectly level, (but then a few days later it had moved, wonder if it will ever stay perfectly flat) not that we will ever need that sort of accuracy.