Enginerred Flooring and Underlay?

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Ok I have wooden floor boards in my lounge and hallway and i am intending on taking the carpet up and replacing it with engineered wood flooring.

Thinking of going for 150mm planks but what underlay do I need??

Was thinkking of fiberboards? no DPM needed but I want to keep down noise etc

Many thanks,

Dan
 
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Dan, it depends first on the direction of your existing boards and the new boards.
If both are in the same direction then you first have to overboards the existing boards with hardboard or plywood (in the event the existing boards are uneven) to prevent extra movement and draft.

If perpendicular to direction or on hardboard/plywood you can use Timbermate Duratex (3.5mm) - I would stay away from those 7mm fibreboards, they could create a rather bouncy floor.

Read this too: Type of underfloor is type of underlayment
 
Perpendicular so I guess 3.2mm will be adequate

Many thanks,

Dam
 
Yes i agree (it's happened WYL !!!) stay away from the fibre boards.

If your existing floorboards look cupped or crowned as many do, it is because of moisture getting into them. Take no chances and use a quality DPM underlay and be sure your airbricks are clear.

Another way (a better one in my opinion) is to lay Novia building paper, £1.00 per/m2 www.novia.co.uk and secret nail your new floor. It won't move and won't have that hollow sound that underlay produces.
 
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Yes i agree (it's happened WYL !!!) stay away from the fibre boards.

If your existing floorboards look cupped or crowned as many do, it is because of moisture getting into them. Take no chances and use a quality DPM underlay and be sure your airbricks are clear.
Glad you agree on the fiber boards, but why do you advice to use a DPM when there are existing floorboards involved???
Installing a DPM on existing floorboards can/will block the needed ventilation, cause condensation between DPM and floorboards and could even cause rotting joists!

Never ever use a DPM on existing floorboards, plywood, chipboard, OSB etc, only use DPM on concrete/screed or when you don't want/can't remove vinyl or marley tiles whn isntalling a wooden floor using the floating method.
 
Just taken up the carpet and the floor boards are running the same way as the enginerred boards. Do I need to put a sub floor dowm first? plywood?
 
WYL... I could come back at you with allsorts of arguments, especially from advice you have given 12 months ago and not known any different. Instead, i see someone who wants to improve and explain how these bits of trees should be installed whether on a DIY basis, in your shop or via your book.
Forgive me for being slightly traditionalist but wood floors were installed far more successfully 200/300 years ago than what they are today. just look at an old rectory, church, art gallery etc to see. A lot was to do with natural drying times as opposed to kiln drying for the mass market and there was no mention of DPM, woodchip or that horrific word "floating".

Today, a lot of the guarantees are written up by solicitors, not wood floor experts to cover the backs of large producers who prey on the DIY market, who manipulate the guarantee to the point of worthlesness.

That said, today, we have a market that wants the correct info and now!! wants a wood floor off the shelf and laid tomorrow.. etc etc,,. All within budget of course, with no respect for the trees themselves nor the planet they grow on.
Hopefully, this will be reflected in your book!!












Yes i agree (it's happened WYL !!!) stay away from the fibre boards.

If your existing floorboards look cupped or crowned as many do, it is because of moisture getting into them. Take no chances and use a quality DPM underlay and be sure your airbricks are clear.
Glad you agree on the fiber boards, but why do you advice to use a DPM when there are existing floorboards involved???
Installing a DPM on existing floorboards can/will block the needed ventilation, cause condensation between DPM and floorboards and could even cause rotting joists!

Never ever use a DPM on existing floorboards, plywood, chipboard, OSB etc, only use DPM on concrete/screed or when you don't want/can't remove vinyl or marley tiles whn isntalling a wooden floor using the floating method.
 
Forgive me for being slightly traditionalist but wood floors were installed far more successfully 200/300 years ago than what they are today. just look at an old rectory, church, art gallery etc to see. A lot was to do with natural drying times as opposed to kiln drying for the mass market and there was no mention of DPM, woodchip or that horrific word "floating".

By all means, be traditional - we've been taught the traditional ways of installing wood floors properly too (in The Netherlands where wooden flooring in homes have been main steam for many, many more years than here - and I'm not talking about existing floorboards onto joists as a floor).

But as you also indicate: times are a changing, manufacturing methods are changing, the way house are build are changing and the products themselves are changing.

It's our job, as professionals passionate about wooden floors, to keep up to date with all this not just for own own jobs but so we can keep informing and advising DIY-ers (and others) to the best of our knowledge.

Yes, methods change - even introducing that so-called horrific word of installing a wooden floor floating.

This is all indeed reflected in our book, where we keep hammering on the following fact: it does not matter which installation method you use, AS LONG AS it's done correctly with the correct preparation and the correct materials. And the method used can vary depending on the product bought and the home/room/circumstances it has to be installed in.

The golden olden days that an Oak trunk had 5 - 10 years the time to dry in the most natural way are long, long gone unfortunately. And there will always those who think they can jump on the band wagon of the popularity of any product - like happens with DIY-sheds, carpet companies etc selling wooden floors now.

It then becomes even more important for professionals to warn a DIY-er of the lack of proper information most of these "pile 'm high, sell 'm low" products have - nor any knowledge of a "sales-person" in these sheds.

Rant over ;)

And yes, we might not agree on some things, but we're both trying to help out/advice to the best of our knowledge, based on our experiences.
And hopefully, we will both keep this up ;)
 
Just taken up the carpet and the floor boards are running the same way as the enginerred boards. Do I need to put a sub floor dowm first? plywood?
That would be the best practise to avoid any extra movement caused by (slightly) cupped existing floorboards and to prevent draft coming through when a new board "sits" exactly on top of a joint between two old floorboards.

If you floor is in rather good nick, 6mm ply wood do.
 

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