I am having a job done, to install Essex flange, no return valves and a anti-gravity loop, as I keep getting air in my system, the shower pump slows down and gets very noisy, also sometimes when opening a hot tap it triggers the shower pump briefly, and I also get warm water out of the hot tap when the heating is in for around 15 seconds(this might be unrelated), have had a quote for £350.00 all in does this sound reasonable?.
Essex flange, ect
- Thread starter koontz
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I’m sure @HERTS P&D will be drawn like a moth to a flame to this thread by the mere mention of an Essex flange….. 
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Doesn't sound too bad, does it include materials? Hard to tell though without other comparison quotes.
Yes all in, I thought it sounded reasonable, taking 3 plus hours.
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Not bad at all.
I would of recommended a Grundfos Single Surrey Flange!
Andy
Andy
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Essex flanges are easier!
I have had different answers to what type of shower pump to replace, as the one I have is dieing, chatgpt says I need a negative one, but the plumber is saying you only need a negative one if the shower is in the loft or above the cold tank?.
I have had different answers to what type of shower pump to replace, as the one I have is dieing, chatgpt says I need a negative one, but the plumber is saying you only need a negative one if the shower is in the loft or above the cold tank
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Trust your plumber.
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IME Essex flanges tend to leak. They are easy to put in once you've got your head round the idea of making a big hole in the side of the cylinder.
An obvious shortcoming was the max temp of the thick washer they provide, which iirc is 55°, which isn't enough.
A Warix flange is often easier to retrofit than a Surrey, because the existing HW OUT from the cylinder still goes upwards. Depends what you have.
If your pump is getting air in it, I would ask myself , HOW? Be careful, you can't put a check valve in a vent pipe, , etc.
The negative head thing is only about starting the pump. If water wouldn't come out of the tap if opened with the pump installed but not running, you need a neg head pump.
You, or your plumber, need to be aware of cavtation, too. And check for auto air vents...
A lot of "plumbers" aren't very good in this area.
Be aware that if the pump is not installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, especially with regard to heads and pipe sizes, it can fail and the guarantee will be void. Having said that, some instructions are daft.
£300 for half a day's work is quite alot, I'd have thought. I paid mine £300 a day recently.
An obvious shortcoming was the max temp of the thick washer they provide, which iirc is 55°, which isn't enough.
A Warix flange is often easier to retrofit than a Surrey, because the existing HW OUT from the cylinder still goes upwards. Depends what you have.
If your pump is getting air in it, I would ask myself , HOW? Be careful, you can't put a check valve in a vent pipe, , etc.
The negative head thing is only about starting the pump. If water wouldn't come out of the tap if opened with the pump installed but not running, you need a neg head pump.
You, or your plumber, need to be aware of cavtation, too. And check for auto air vents...
A lot of "plumbers" aren't very good in this area.
Be aware that if the pump is not installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, especially with regard to heads and pipe sizes, it can fail and the guarantee will be void. Having said that, some instructions are daft.
£300 for half a day's work is quite alot, I'd have thought. I paid mine £300 a day recently.