Evaluate my smart meter installs

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Think I have the job they'll probably ask what I consider the correct procedure
Biggest variable seems to me the condition of the installation that you're re-energizing, would there be a standard for this ?


Check Condition of Meter Cabinet

Check Basic Condition of installation- Polarity ,EFLI at a a 13 amp outlet, check installation VD isn't excessive, and no major safety issues at Main Board(overheating etc.)

Shut down Customers Equipment

Switch off Main Incommer ,fit lock off/warnings

Setup Safe Working Area at Meter Cabinet

Remove Cut-Out ,Prove Dead ,Swop Meter

Check Connections,wiggle and retighten, visual and replace Cut-out

Check polarity and EFLI at incommer (Circa 0.35 for TN-C-S)

Energise installation and check polarity and compare EFLI at same 13a outlet

fit seals at cabinet
seen some installers only using a non contact detector
 
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Can you explain a bit more about what you are trying to achieve? What job are you talking about?
I presume that he's considering taking a job as a " 'smart' meter installer".

I very recently watched someone install a 'smart' meter, and she essentially did exactly as that checklist says, other that that it was an internal meter, so no 'meter cabinet' and also I don't really understand the meaning of "... check installation VD isn't excessive".

I have to say that had she not turned up driving a large van', I would have seriously doubted that she was old enough to have a driving licence, but she certainly seemed to fully understand what she was doing, and did it properly/satisfactorily ! She also did things in addition to those in the above list (e.g. started by labelling all conductors on both side of the meter as L or N - and she also took photos of what she was doing (including her measurements) at every stage.

The only odd thing was that there was an existing isolator between meter and CU and she asked me if I would like her to remove it. A fair enough question/offer, I suppose, but I wonder in what circumstances anyone would want an isolator to be removed?!

Kind Regards, John]
 
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Record reading(s) from old meter before disconnecting anything.
Leave record of old meter reading and new meter readings
 
Only thing I'd say you missed out is check for the signal strength of the GSM / 4G networks before you start the swop.

To date I've had two swaps not happen (thank ****) due there not being sufficient mobile network signal strength.
 
I take it you're not a smart meter fan. Out of interest, why not?
I am not a smart meter fan, as there seems to be no good reason to fit them. Other than the meter is sealed with tamper prof seals so the supplier is sure no tampering.

I will be having one fitted on the 28th, because the rules it seems have changed, and without one I can't be paid for feed in energy, looking at the adverts I can then switch my lights on/off by clapping hands, that is clearly not going to be the case, but it means we can't trust the adverts.

The pre-smart meter system was a CT coil by the meter and it was linked to the internet so Scottish power could use the readings to help with estimated bills, to be fair the system was good, yearly correction was within £10, which to me was near enough. They also provided a desk monitor, and some smart type plug in socket adaptors.

However reason for smart meter is the fitting of solar panels, so since solar panels fitted already can view in near real time the four main readings solar yield, battery charge, feed-in energy, and consumption. I say near real time as the server is in China and so there is a short delay with some readings, so I can make a cup of coffee, walk upstairs and view the web page and the consumption still shows 3 kW for a minute or two. I don't know if the smart meter responds faster?

The only odd thing was that there was an existing isolator between meter and CU and she asked me if I would like her to remove it. A fair enough question/offer, I suppose, but I wonder in what circumstances anyone would want an isolator to be removed?!
That does seem odd, without it how can the meter be made dead? I know the inverter should auto stop when the supply is lost, but can't really rely on the inverter doing this, it would need some positive form of isolation.

Clearly technically they are working live, as no way to isolate the neutral on the grid supply, hence the PPE worn by people changing meters. When my son did it, one important thing was to check the terminal screws were free running, it seems there were some meters where the screws were binding, so the torque screwdriver was giving a false reading, and the tails could over heat due to a poor connection. Problem was once heated up, it would remove any binding, so an investigation would conclude the terminals were not torqued to correct setting, if a torque wrench was not used the installer may have felt how the screws were binding, but the torque wrench masked the feeling one would normally get when a screw binds.

A assume meter installers must work as pairs anyway, the home occupier does not have the PPE or training to act as a second man, so can't rely on them, so since sole working not allowed they would need to work in pairs to satisfy the HSE.
 
The only odd thing was that there was an existing isolator between meter and CU and she asked me if I would like her to remove it. A fair enough question/offer, I suppose, but I wonder in what circumstances anyone would want an isolator to be removed?!

There does seem some strange requirements sometimes, I suspect originally implimented for good reasons, which are not always passed down and are just applied whether they are particually relevant or not on a Monkey see - Monkey do kind of basis

When mine was fitted, the chap had been a tradesman before going into it, allthough, on the plumbing heating side rather than electrical, and he basically confirmed that most of what they do is by rote and some of the guys dont understand why, just what.

Anyway, previous to them comming, at my mains position I have two switch fuses feeding two boards elsewhere, and on the meter board I'd had a isolator in a platsic DIN enclosure (that I'd fitted years back as a single point of isolation) , and it was intruding a bit, so as to not give reason for them to abort the visit, a week before I bought a new wylex REC2, fitted it to the side and made sure all the tails were dressed out of the way. The chap doing meter swap turned up with an isolator already (proteus-yuck) and I cant remember the details, but I think I did mention that I'd made sure there was enough space for meter, and we ended up in a discussion of if I'd want that isolator left in rather than swapped (Yes) for which he had to ring his boss for approval, which apparantly was only posible as long as the isolator was one of the current generation that had dual terminal screws. He also replaced the tails from the head and the isolator with new dispite there being nothing wrong with them, with ones that had brown and blue outer sheath, I did ask whether it was the 21 strand stuff he was putting in, but no, apparently if the existing is that, that has to be replaced as well as they dont like those. Also had to take a picture on his tablet of one of the boards, despite me pointing out that the two switchfuses are the origin of my installation. He then had to go back to his previous job because he had fogotten to take one of his pictures on completion (think it was the card with the old and new readings on)

On the plus side, he did fit one of the newer generation sets of meters that are dual band because of the distance between power and gas rather than just fitting whatever was closest on the van and hoping for best (thats what the call centre told me would happen when I explained the distance, that the first fitter would fit one, then if there were problems one from a different remedial team would be booked to come and sort it out) so glad the reality is better organised than what is planned!

I have an electric vehicle, so with the radio teleswitch service ending, I have no choice other than smart meter really as a flat rate tariff wouldn't work for me, as it is is, I'm on octopus agile ( https://agileprices.co.uk/?region=B ) and with all the wind generation last night I was able to charge the car up, do two loads of washing and drying, get some heat into the conservatory (which I wanted to make sure was dry after a bit of a leak) and de-humidify the bathroom all night for next to nothing:cool:
 
I am not a smart meter fan, as there seems to be no good reason to fit them.
My reason was to get on a "smart" tariff, currently saving me around 30% compared to standard variable. That might be less of a benefit when (if) we get the solar panels, but then we'd need the smart meter anyway to get export payments. Nobody's doing deemed export for new installs, and the rates for metered export are better anyway.
I say near real time as the server is in China and so there is a short delay with some readings, so I can make a cup of coffee, walk upstairs and view the web page and the consumption still shows 3 kW for a minute or two. I don't know if the smart meter responds faster?
My "in home display" updates every few seconds, but apart from a brief novelty I don't use it. I'm supposed to be getting a device that relays near real time from the meter to my account online.

Mainly I look at historical data. For example if I want to see how much was used on a laundry day the half hourly figures suffice.
 
A assume meter installers must work as pairs anyway, the home occupier does not have the PPE or training to act as a second man, so can't rely on them, so since sole working not allowed they would need to work in pairs to satisfy the HSE.

The meter swaps here, were all single manned swaps.
 

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