External Door Brace

[loopy66]

You have probably mostly seen these types of doors at B&Q : https://www.diy.com/departments/bra...ck-door-h-1981mm-w-838mm/3663602790921_BQ.prd

... the brace at the top half goes the opposite way to the bottom half, apparently so it can be installed either way. My issue is, I want both braces to go the same direction so the force is pushed into the middle hinge and also the bottom hinge.

I heard that the brace can be prised off but I can't see any examples of it being done and how to do it safely without splitting anything. Does anyone have any experience doing this that they can share?

 

[GhostIntMachine]

Are the braces glued on? I would have thought so, and if so you'll struggle to get one off. If on the other hand it is only nailed, it will come off by the application of a hammer and a very thin, curved prybar (e.g. a Japanese "Reform" bar, such as this Mokuba model - BTW you can get them cheaper than that, but still going to be £18 to £20). A standard pry bar will more than likely cause damage, as will a narrow chisel (it really needs a 40 to 50mm chisel)

 

[loopy66]

They seem to be stapled on rather than nailed or glued..

 

[GhostIntMachine]

If it is only stapled on it should be possible to pry it off gently with a thin, curved bar, starting at one end and working slowly towards the other (you may well need a second bar to "walk" the batten off the face of the door). It would be nice if we could see a picture of the brace side of the door to see if the ends present any other issues in reversing it (e.g. chamfered edges, etc)

 

[foxhole]

You have probably mostly seen these types of doors at B&Q : https://www.diy.com/departments/bra...ck-door-h-1981mm-w-838mm/3663602790921_BQ.prd

... the brace at the top half goes the opposite way to the bottom half, apparently so it can be installed either way. My issue is, I want both braces to go the same direction so the force is pushed into the middle hinge and also the bottom hinge.

I heard that the brace can be prised off but I can't see any examples of it being done and how to do it safely without splitting anything. Does anyone have any experience doing this that they can share?

Why ?

 

[loopy66]

GhostInMachin, I will look to get a pic and upload.

foxhole, I want both braces to take the load into the hinges rather than just one of them. Plus, I had to take a little more off the door and the bottom rail is not as wide as I would like it anymore; I have some wood the perfect size so I want to take the brace off the bottom part of the door, stiffen up the bottom of the door with another piece of wood, cut the brace and re-install it so it takes the weight into the bottom hinge. Then 2000 coats of varnish and I can sleep at night knowing it's a solid door.

 

[big-all]

to be honest a sealed door is very very different to an open door/gate where all planks expand and contract freely unconnected to each other so any slack on the joints will sag lock side
when you have txg in contact and well painted it acts more like sheet material so gives excellent bracing so treat well with finish that will glue well together so would leave the structure well alone ' and enjoy life

 

[opps]

Are the braces glued on? I would have thought so, and if so you'll struggle to get one off. If on the other hand it is only nailed, it will come off by the application of a hammer and a very thin, curved prybar (e.g. a Japanese "Reform" bar, such as this Mokuba model - BTW you can get them cheaper than that, but still going to be £18 to £20). A standard pry bar will more than likely cause damage, as will a narrow chisel (it really needs a 40 to 50mm chisel)

I have the Mokuba. It is not a patch on the Bakuma one that I also own.

Axminster used to sell the Bakuma but eventually stopped selling it and started selling the Mokuba instead. The tip of the Bakuma is much thinner. It is, without doubt, my favourite hand tool. I even use it for chopping metal back boxes into brick work.

 

[GhostIntMachine]

Yes, but you can always regrind the ends, the same way you sharpen chisels. Similar steel, so it will take an edge if you really want it to, although TBH I think there's little point putting a perfect edge on something you are going to hammer the snot outa

 

[opps]

Yes, but you can always regrind the ends, the same way you sharpen chisels. Similar steel, so it will take an edge if you really want it to, although TBH I think there's little point putting a perfect edge on something you are going to hammer the snot outa

I get the impression that the steel is much, much harder. I did put it on my chisel grinding wheel to remove an 8 year old dink where I once went through a live cable with it, and to straighten the corners which had become rounded over the years.

The rounded corners were the result of hammering out bricks over the years.

The following image shows how thin the edge is

 

[GhostIntMachine]

Either of them is still better than a Magnussen bar....

 

[opps]

Either of them is still better than a Magnussen bar....

Point taken.

I have only recently discovered the following

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Goldblatt-Commercial-Multi-Tool-Mouldings-Remodelling/dp/B0CXSCPKW5

Previously, I would use my japanese and put a filler knife behind it to prevent damage to the plaster/substrate. The above (also made by other firms) has a pivoting arm which pulls, for example, the skirting, away from the wall. No idea what shear strength they have though.

 

[GhostIntMachine]

Another thing which can be useful on delicate mouldings (apart from a well used stopping or palette knife) are those little stainless steel tools that beekepers use to part out beehives - excellent for messing about with sash windows, too)