Filler with as good a finish as a plaster skim

[shd1970]

Hi all,

I am about to remove some downlights in my lounge ceiling
Additionally, i'm about to have a gas fire removed which will leave a 150mm diameter hole in the wall where the flue exits
My plan was to fill each with the correct depth plasterboard and then finish *somehow*

Q - Is there a filler product that anyone would recommend that would give as near as good a finish as a plaster skim and that could be applied by a competent DIYer, or is getting it skimmed the way to go ?

TIA

 

[opps]

I am not a fan of the product, but checkout Easifill.

Gyproc EasiFill 60

Easily repair walls or fill joints in plasterboards with an all-in-one product.

www.british-gypsum.com

I use it from time to time, but it is incredibly soft. That however makes it easier to sand for a DIYer.

 

[opps]

My post appeared twice...

Hence this edit.

Easifill is incredibly easy to sand. You may need to do a first fill and then a second fill over it.

I would recommend using 120 grit paper to level it and then 180 grit to blend it in.

 

[shd1970]

@opps - thanks for the reply
if its incredibly soft, is it suitable for ceilings still or would it just drop off, or can you mix to your own consistency ?

 

[opps]

Not

@opps - thanks for the reply
if its incredibly soft, is it suitable for ceilings still or would it just drop off, or can you mix to your own consistency ?

It won't drop off but you could dig your fingernail in to it.

On a ceiling it will be fine, assuming that no one is going to scratch it with anything.

I would never recommend it for walls where someone might drag a suitcase/etc along it. In such cases, I would recommend something like Toupret TX110.

 

[shd1970]

Thanks again @opps
The tx110 gets bucket loads of good reviews and no, no one will be getting near it as as I say I’m filling downlighter holes in the ceiling and a flue hole that’s about 7ft in the air

So you don’t think a 150mm diameter hole presents any issues if I keep the depth sensible by fitting the plasterboard well and to the right depth ?

Also, is the a straight edge proper tool to level off with ?

TIA

 

[opps]

Thanks again @opps
The tx110 gets bucket loads of good reviews and no, no one will be getting near it as as I say I’m filling downlighter holes in the ceiling and a flue hole that’s about 7ft in the air

So you don’t think a 150mm diameter hole presents any issues if I keep the depth sensible by fitting the plasterboard well and to the right depth ?

Also, is the a straight edge proper tool to level off with ?

TIA

I like and use TX110.

The TX110 will set faster.

If your aim is to minimise sanding (and dust). Use a straight edge to do the first fill. You will however need to do a second thin fill. The filler will stick to the straight edge more than it will stick to the edge of the old plasterboard.

If worried about dust, a Mirka handy sander can be connected to a vacuum cleaner for (almost) dust free sanding.

Mirka Handy Sanding Block with Extraction - 80 x 230mm

Dust free sanding is now a reality when using Abranet® abrasives combined with dust extraction. This 'D' handled hand sanding block with a 80 x 230mm hook and loop attachment pad from Mirka is light in weight and very comfortable to hold. A great...

www.axminstertools.com

You will however also need the Abranet mesh abrasive paper as well.

 

[shd1970]

Thanks again @opps
Final question….the plasterboard circles that will fill the majority of each hole…should I PVA it and either let it dry or keep tacky, before using the tx110 ?

 

[opps]

Thanks again @opps
Final question….the plasterboard circles that will fill the majority of each hole…should I PVA it and either let it dry or keep tacky, before using the tx110 ?

I would leave it dry.

I have never had any problems with using Tx110 over non primed surfaces.

 

[shd1970]

I would leave it dry.

I have never had any problems with using Tx110 over non primed surfaces.

sorry @opps ....are you saying there is no need to PVA at all then ?
I was just assuming that it would best to apply a diluted PVA mix to at least the cut plasterboard edges, and perhaps the plasterboard fill-in disc to which the Tx110 will adhere to

I've got some PVA so its no issue to spend a couple of minutes mixing a 3 or 5:1 mix and apply to seal

Apols for the paranoia

 

[opps]

sorry @opps ....are you saying there is no need to PVA at all then ?
I was just assuming that it would best to apply a diluted PVA mix to at least the cut plasterboard edges, and perhaps the plasterboard fill-in disc to which the Tx110 will adhere to

I've got some PVA so its no issue to spend a couple of minutes mixing a 3 or 5:1 mix and apply to seal

Apols for the paranoia

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the PVA, but there is no harm PVAing the cut edges, however, make sure that you wipe any excess away from the painted edges.

 

[shd1970]

Thanks for all the advice @opps

 

[opps]

No probs.

Let us know how you get on.

This site exists to generate income for the site owners, which is fair enough given that they have to pay staff and server fees, it does however need people like you asking for advice, and people like me offering up advice. In the event that my advice is incorrect, it will help other people if you provide your own feedback.

Best of luck.