Filling gaps between plasterboard and floor boards

[Worton007]

Hi, (first post)

I need to fit new skirting boards to my house however the plasterer hasnt filled in gaps properly between the floor boards and plasterboard.

Can I use Toupret filler to fill the gaps? Then the skirting can be fitted flush. Otherwise any other product recommendations? And simpler the product the better!

Its a victorian house so dont want any damp issues later.

Thanks,

 

[Lower]

The purpose of the skirting is to cover the gap.

What do you mean about fitting the skirting flush? The skirting should sit on the surface of the wall.

 

[Worton007]

The purpose of the skirting is to cover the gap.

What do you mean about fitting the skirting flush? The skirting should sit on the surface of the wall.

Yes, the skirting needs to sit on the wall surface but how would you install the skirting properly if there is a deep gap behind it?

 

[JohnD]

Screw a batten to the wall.

For a superior skirting, stand it against the wall and draw a pencil line along the top on the plaster.

Cut away the plaster from that line down

Fix a batten, same thickness as the plaster or a shade more, to the wall, and another about an inch above the floor

The skirting can be lightly screwed to the battens. If you want to stain or varnish it, use brass screws.

Use filler to tidy the batten/plaster joint.

You can run cables for LAN, phones, aerial, alarm, speakers etc between the battens (but not power cables)

 

[Deleted member 292770]

get him back to redo the lot. You paid for that?
in fact get someone else to redo it.

 

[stevethespreader]

Thats shocking hes even plastered over the door frame, that cant be the work of a pro surely?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes, the skirting needs to sit on the wall surface but how would you install the skirting properly if there is a deep gap behind it?

Blow some expanding foam into the gap, let it set, cut flush to plaster with a bread knife. Whatever else you do that plaster on the door lining needs to be chopped back and you'll need to do something to get the architraves to sit flat when you install them - possibly plant some narrow strips of 12mm MDF onto the edges of the lining then fix the architraves through them? Otherwise you'll need to rebate the backs of the architraves but if you do that you'll find that the skirting probably sits proud when fitted. Use low expansion foam to glue your skirting in place in that corner

 

[Deleted member 292770]

Blow some expanding foam into the gap, ley it set, cut flush to plaster with a bread knife. Whatever else you do that plaster on the door lining needs to be chopped back and you'll need to do something to get the architraves to sit flat whenyou install them - possibly plant some narrow strips of 12mm MDF onto the edges of the lining then fix the architraves through them? Otherwise you'll need to rebate the backs of the architraves but if you do that you'll find that the skirting probably sits proud when fitted. Use low expansion foam to glue your skirting in place in that corner

yep just bodge it more.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

9 times out of 10 you can't get a plasterer back to correct one of the many "features" that some of your colleagues leave, for love or money. It's a very small length of skirting. The plastering is shocking. I simply offered a pragmatic solution based on having been forced to deal with this sort of issue many, many times.

I'd say that 60 to 70% of the plastered walls I've ever dealt with have bottoms which are out of whack (not plumb at the start of the stroke, like the one on the left in the OP's photo) - which sometimes leads me to favour taping and jointing - at least then the walls are plumb at the bottom. It's just the corner beads which are a pain to deal with