Fitting an outdoor tap

[migrantwing]

Just an insight and a few questions for the good folks here!

Wanting to fit an an outdoor tap for use with a hose for watering the garden, washing the car etc.

1) What is the difference between a 1/2" and a 3/4" tap? Is it the thread on the flow end of the tap or the external part of the tap that you can fit an adapter and hose? I realise that you get the same with bathroom taps (basin and bath) but wanted to know so I buy the correct size.

2) I am thinking of tee-ing into the toilet cistern feed as there is already a hole in the wall at this point, and it just makes things easier for me. Failing that, I can always drill another hole, but the wall is concrete with an outer brick skin, so it will take some time.

So, my plan is: Tee in at the cistern feed, add a flexi hose with an isolation valve and a double check NR valve, attach to the 15mm pipe that goes through the wall, through a 22mm hard plastic sleeve that is already in place through the wall, attach the backplate to the wall, attach outdoor tap.

The reason I was thinking of tee-ing into the cistern feed is that the cold water pipe is very low and is obstructed by tiles, so it makes easy access a pain.

All existing pipework is 15mm. Pre 1940's building.

Anything else I need to know or do, folks?

Many thanks.

 

[terryplumb]

most garden taps are 3 /4 thread at hose end and 1/2 inch at wall plate end.some have n/r valve fitted in their body .is the cold pipe mains pressure if so you will get better pressure than gravity fed. what's the flexi for ?? you do need an Isolation valve for tap so on winter you can close it off. and one to WC for ease of maintenance.

 

[migrantwing]

most garden taps are 3 /4 thread at hose end and 1/2 inch at wall plate end.some have n/r valve fitted in their body .is the cold pipe mains pressure if so you will get better pressure than gravity fed. what's the flexi for ?? you do need an Isolation valve for tap so on winter you can close it off. and one to WC for ease of maintenance.

So, do I buy a 1/2" or 3/4" tap? Both are sold at my local Toolstation, hence why I asked the difference?

1/2" and 3/4" Toolstation

Cold water is mains. We have a combi boiler. All in ground floor flat.

The flexi is for coming off the tee at the cistern to the exterior pipework for the outdoor tap. The way the pipework is in this place, using copper pipe (as opposed to a flexi) would make for an unsightly and possibly finicky job.

Already have an isolation valve on the cistern as I had to re-fit pipe work to basin and bath when we moved in. I just added a new compression flexi with iso from the existing pipework to the toilet and also the basin.

 

[denso13]

½" tap is the one to go for.

 

[migrantwing]

½" tap is the one to go for.

Thanks. That's what I'll get then. But why is that? What is the difference between those two I have linked? I'm just curious as to why they have different sizes and what the physical differences are between the two, just for future reference and out of curiosity.

 

[denso13]

3/4" is larger and would normally connect to 22mm pipe, not 15mm.

 

[migrantwing]

3/4" is larger and would normally connect to 22mm pipe, not 15mm.

Great stuff. All I needed to know Thanks again!

 

[FiremanT]

Try to run all the pipework downwards or at most, level. In the winter, you can then turn off at iso. valve, open the tap, and drain. if the pipe runs up, you will have freezing issues.
AFAIAA, the built in NRV/taps are only allowed as a replacement, not new jobs. Either way, they are poor, and suffer frost damage. Go for an internal NRV. IMO

 

[migrantwing]

Try to run all the pipework downwards or at most, level. In the winter, you can then turn off at iso. valve, open the tap, and drain. if the pipe runs up, you will have freezing issues.
AFAIAA, the built in NRV/taps are only allowed as a replacement, not new jobs. Either way, they are poor, and suffer frost damage. Go for an internal NRV. IMO

Valid points. Thanks