Hi.
I need to run some rafters from a wall plate to a cross beam. All of the timbers are 2x6 and the run is 4000mm. This is part of construction of a lean-to/attached pergola.
The bottom of the wall plate has to be at 2340mm and the bottom of the cross beam can't be any lower than 2000mm.
If I do a birds mouth (diagram A) I think that will only give me a rise of 190mm (340mm drop - 150mm height of rafter) which will be a pitch of about 2.7 degress.
If I use joist hangers either end (diagram B) I can get a drop of almost the full 340mm (slightly less because a thin section of joist will still sit above the cross beam) which will get me to almost 5 degrees.
I will want to put some kind of lightweight clear roof on at some point, probably polycarbonate, so will need something to catch it past the beam. If I go with approach B, I can just add something on the far side of the cross beam to catch the roofing overhang.
Alternatively, I can do a variation of B with a very deep notch (diagram C), but I don't think that gives me any real benefit and just complicates the cutting.
I would like to ask whether you folks think that approach B is OK.
The bearing surface of the hangers is 70mm. Rather than use an angled hanger I plan to just notch the rafter to fit with the horizontal base of the hanger.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
I need to run some rafters from a wall plate to a cross beam. All of the timbers are 2x6 and the run is 4000mm. This is part of construction of a lean-to/attached pergola.
The bottom of the wall plate has to be at 2340mm and the bottom of the cross beam can't be any lower than 2000mm.
If I do a birds mouth (diagram A) I think that will only give me a rise of 190mm (340mm drop - 150mm height of rafter) which will be a pitch of about 2.7 degress.
If I use joist hangers either end (diagram B) I can get a drop of almost the full 340mm (slightly less because a thin section of joist will still sit above the cross beam) which will get me to almost 5 degrees.
I will want to put some kind of lightweight clear roof on at some point, probably polycarbonate, so will need something to catch it past the beam. If I go with approach B, I can just add something on the far side of the cross beam to catch the roofing overhang.
Alternatively, I can do a variation of B with a very deep notch (diagram C), but I don't think that gives me any real benefit and just complicates the cutting.
I would like to ask whether you folks think that approach B is OK.
The bearing surface of the hangers is 70mm. Rather than use an angled hanger I plan to just notch the rafter to fit with the horizontal base of the hanger.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
