Got to put three cabinets up. Two in kitchen (one next to other cabinet on wall in corner, the other , the other side of oven in corner. The third above toilet in bathroom. They are all going into the wall which is shared with the neighbour in flats so I guess brickwork. What fixings?
Fixings for these walls
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
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In the kitchen I strongly recommend Kitchen Cabinet Hanging Rail with adjustable hangers. The rail comes in lengths that you can fit to run all along the wall, they have lots of screw holes so there need never be a pipe or cable in the way. You can fit the cabs anywhere along the length so can position them to suit, or move them around if you want with no need to drill again.
When you start drilling you will find out if it is plaster on blocks, or if it is plasterboard which will likely have a gap behind it. Your screws and plugs must go well into the blocks.
In the bathroom you can use individual hangers if you want, though the rail is stronger, especially on a plasterboard wall where you can probably catch a couple of studs with your screws.
The rail is usually galvanised steel and you can prime it (after cutting but before fitting) and paint it to match the wall.
When you start drilling you will find out if it is plaster on blocks, or if it is plasterboard which will likely have a gap behind it. Your screws and plugs must go well into the blocks.
In the bathroom you can use individual hangers if you want, though the rail is stronger, especially on a plasterboard wall where you can probably catch a couple of studs with your screws.
The rail is usually galvanised steel and you can prime it (after cutting but before fitting) and paint it to match the wall.
I would echo JohnD's comments re drilling to determine type of screws and plugs.
Having once had an admittingly heavily crockery laden kitchen cabinet fall off the wall in the middle of the night causing damage to worktop, tiled floor to say nothing of HID's best dinner service, I don't trust those flimsy plastic bodied hangers. It's a bit more work and some might say overkill, but I recommend Hafele corner brackets/gussets. I fitted these to each cabinet, top and bottom with a wall fixings through the holes provided. The brackets also add greatly to the rigidity of the cabinets.
Having once had an admittingly heavily crockery laden kitchen cabinet fall off the wall in the middle of the night causing damage to worktop, tiled floor to say nothing of HID's best dinner service, I don't trust those flimsy plastic bodied hangers. It's a bit more work and some might say overkill, but I recommend Hafele corner brackets/gussets. I fitted these to each cabinet, top and bottom with a wall fixings through the holes provided. The brackets also add greatly to the rigidity of the cabinets.
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Tapping the wall may give an indication of it's structure.
A hollow sound could indicate plasterboard on battens whereas a solid wall will not. Either way, as stated, your fixings must go into the brick/block to a sufficient depth to support the weight.
One question, (well possibly two).
1/ Is the cabinet going to the left of the cupboard in the top picture? If so, how do you plan to open the door?
2/ Have you considered the cabling for the socket above the worktop?
A hollow sound could indicate plasterboard on battens whereas a solid wall will not. Either way, as stated, your fixings must go into the brick/block to a sufficient depth to support the weight.
One question, (well possibly two).
1/ Is the cabinet going to the left of the cupboard in the top picture? If so, how do you plan to open the door?
2/ Have you considered the cabling for the socket above the worktop?
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In the kitchen I strongly recommend Kitchen Cabinet Hanging Rail with adjustable hangers. The rail comes in lengths that you can fit to run all along the wall, they have lots of screw holes so there need never be a pipe or cable in the way. You can fit the cabs anywhere along the length so can position them to suit, or move them around if you want with no need to drill again.
When you start drilling you will find out if it is plaster on blocks, or if it is plasterboard which will likely have a gap behind it. Your screws and plugs must go well into the blocks.
In the bathroom you can use individual hangers if you want, though the rail is stronger, especially on a plasterboard wall where you can probably catch a couple of studs with your screws.
The rail is usually galvanised steel and you can prime it (after cutting but before fitting) and paint it to match the wall.
Where can I buy these the rails?
I was using the below.
Also when put my cheap detector on metal it was bleeping all the time so I went in slowly then pushed a nail in to see if I could feel a pipe.
Felt nothing. No water spurted out. I guess all good?
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the cooker hood is too low. Which part of your face will bang into it when you lean over the hob to stir your porage?
the rails are on fleabay. Some places that sell kitchen assembly accessories sell them. If you look at the little brackets your small cabinet was on, they are probably the same section, but being short pieces they are harder to level, and you have to put them in just the right spot; sometimes there is a pipe, cable or loose mortar joint where you need to put the screw.
the rails are on fleabay. Some places that sell kitchen assembly accessories sell them. If you look at the little brackets your small cabinet was on, they are probably the same section, but being short pieces they are harder to level, and you have to put them in just the right spot; sometimes there is a pipe, cable or loose mortar joint where you need to put the screw.
In the kitchen I strongly recommend Kitchen Cabinet Hanging Rail with adjustable hangers. The rail comes in lengths that you can fit to run all along the wall, they have lots of screw holes so there need never be a pipe or cable in the way. You can fit the cabs anywhere along the length so can position them to suit, or move them around if you want with no need to drill again.
When you start drilling you will find out if it is plaster on blocks, or if it is plasterboard which will likely have a gap behind it. Your screws and plugs must go well into the blocks.
In the bathroom you can use individual hangers if you want, though the rail is stronger, especially on a plasterboard wall where you can probably catch a couple of studs with your screws.
The rail is usually galvanised steel and you can prime it (after cutting but before fitting) and paint it to match the wall.
These are individual cabinets by themselves so one that runs full length of wall wont work
Yes it will. In your case you cut it to length so a slightly smaller than 60cm length across back of the cabinet will work as it means you have other multiple places to put the screws in, which distributes the load and means you can select the secure places to put the screws in.
Hard to get in local shops.
They sell the rails in Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hanging-Kitchen-Cabinet-Cupboard-Mounting/dp/B00VK29NKU
And here on ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...binet+Cupboard+Wall+Mounting+Bracket&_sacat=0
And here for an independent
https://www.locksonline.com/Cabinet-Hanger-Wall-Rail-2032mm-Long-6492.html
And Ikea have a nice photo of it being used (I would not get this one as it seems to jut out a long way into room:
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/besta-suspension-rail-silver-colour-30284846/?cid=gb|ps|pla||||&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1eHVl8zX5AIVQ7TtCh1OOw0DEAQYAiABEgIl-fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
SFK
Hard to get in local shops.
They sell the rails in Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hanging-Kitchen-Cabinet-Cupboard-Mounting/dp/B00VK29NKU
And here on ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...binet+Cupboard+Wall+Mounting+Bracket&_sacat=0
And here for an independent
https://www.locksonline.com/Cabinet-Hanger-Wall-Rail-2032mm-Long-6492.html
And Ikea have a nice photo of it being used (I would not get this one as it seems to jut out a long way into room:
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/besta-suspension-rail-silver-colour-30284846/?cid=gb|ps|pla||||&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1eHVl8zX5AIVQ7TtCh1OOw0DEAQYAiABEgIl-fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
SFK
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D
Deleted member 174758
400mm seems right for the stud centres in a wall. Those long rails can be fixed into the studs, but there would be no harm in adding an umbrella fixing or even an ordinary plasterboard fixing at the "wagging" end of the rail as well for extra strength.
If its not the camera angle, hows the door on the wall unit to the right of the extractor going to open?
It isn't staying open.
What you think of this(in photos)? The kitchen unit is above the toilet, personally I think it's dangerous.
When I put this one up I used 8mm Fischer duo power fixings. It's a flat and the wall separates one flat to another so I figured it must be brick. I drilled 7mm holes (so it would be tight for 8mm plugs then used 70mm number 10 screws) and drilled deep. When I hammered these plugs in they went well below the surface, i figured past the plaster and in the brick would be better. Is it ok to push the plugs deep into hole?
Oh Yeah and it was a strong fixing really tight
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