float & set - fixing battens

Ahh, methinks you are refering to the way the wall "sucks" the moisture out of the applied coat, then it falls off 'cos it is too dry?

yup! or if it doesnt crack and fall off, it dries too quickly and you cant get a finish on it.
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I think T/Monkey meant the overall render, instead of one thick coat,, bring it out in thinner coats as we have been saying earlier.

Ahh,, yes (suction) you've got it. Yours wont fall off, (now it's on) but it makes it more difficult to work with. You would normally put a waterproofer admix in the render which more or less eliminates any suction.

When you put on your next coat, give the wall a good wet down,,, not overwet though, then leave it for a few minutes before you coat onto it.

If you have a problem with suction, even though you have wet down the wall (i'm assuming you never used waterproofer), give the wall a coat of PVA, then "let it dry" (kills the suction),, then pva again, and coat onto it while it's still tacky. Suction on some jobs can be a good thing if you can handle it,,, on other jobs, especially roughcasting,, you dont want any suction at all.

The size of the job you're working on just now, is perfect for learning to render/plaster. ;)

Thank You, Everyone.

I have taken over your thread and I really appreciate your input/advice.

I am now four cans down and ready for a bath and bed.

One trick I tried and failed on... I saw a video where a builder used what looked like a small pan to throw (under arm) slurry mix (what's that?) onto the external wall. After several/many throws, he levelled off and continued to cover the wall in sections until the wall was completed. He had two batons fixed to the wall and a long plank that he "sawed" across to get the level. Once completed he "skimmed" the wall with a white cement and used a machine to throw small stones on it.

The under arm throwing method does not work with a flat triangle trowel very well. I nearly fell over on the crud that hit the floor..... The Walls and the ceiling (and me too).

My wife found it hilarious and I kid you not, she wanted to video it to put on YouTube, but I had to take the fone off her to stop the embarrasment factor hitting 10/10.

All the best and thanks to all.

Do you want to see tha back of the doorway where my first attempt a bricking up went slightly wrong?
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remind me tomorrow, I'm too boozed up right now.

My wife has put everything back in the kitchen (in front of the ex-doorway) and it will have to be moved out of the way before I can take a picture.

On that note. The wall surrounding that ex-doorway needs a skin of plaster. do you recooment Dot&Dab route or thistle & topcoat?

You'll see what I mean - on the picture tomorrow.
Titter ye not! said a great man, on his way to the Forum (geddit?)

It is a learning curve. I should of cut the breeze blocks to centre up the joints and used the offcuts to trim in but this worked...

After all it is behind the render and plaster.

Anyway, here is the pictures:

I will try to do better next time...[/img]
Our Noseall will give you his verdict on the blockwork i'm sure,, and i think you know yourself where you could have improved on it, but hey,,, it looks strong enough, and by the time it's plastered/rendered, it'll look the bee's knees.

Me? Use Hardwall? (whats that, by the way?) I'm a proper plasterer (not), I use the hard stuff - CEMENT.

Now I can do it proper like, I'm using nothing else!!! (Anyone got the number for a good plasterer on the quiet like?)

After the fun and games with this side (and it ain't finished yet), I can appreciate why it costs so much to have these jobs done by Qualified & Time Served Plasterers.

Still - it has and continues to be, a learning experience. My wife said (five minutes before the first attempt fell off the wall) that I had a knack for plastering and rendering. A hidden talent, she said. 10 minutes later, I'm shovelling out the "dead" cement into the garden. Jinxed me, she did.':evil:'

Still looking forward to the rest of the house to do...
:LOL: :LOL: thanks for the laugh HipoKondriaK i needed it after today.
Well whilst rendering up the third coat, I left it overnight and it has dried wonderfully, however, it has bulged a little at the top near the right hand top corner and it sounds hollow when it is tapped on.

This is not good. Definitely!

Do I leave it, or do I chip it out, back to good render or what?

My initial impulse is to chip it out. Then re render over the top.

I was going to top coat today but, one thing or another, I didn't get a look in until about 5pm tonight. It is now 3am on monday and I still do not have the "other" problems sorted out.

Over the next few days I have got to get this sorted...
Got a bit lost in all the bad things in my life recently.... :evil:
Anyway, got the doorway done on both sides now and the finish on the kitchen side went perfectly, yet the front room side went a bit out of control.
I will post a few pictures later, but tonight, I am struggling with a wall that will not take paint.

Or rather it did, until the second coat went on, then it peeled off or blistered.

Just put two coats of BaseCoat on it tonight and got finished about 30 mins ago. letting my brushes and rollers soak in the sink for a while before i wash them out.

With regard to the front room side of the doorway, I am contemplating taking it back to the render and starting again, if i can
Thanks for the update Hipok'k. Sorry to hear about the problem with the paint not taking. Hope you never polished the surface of the plaster to much, that can cause problems with paint sticking, also, did you mist coat the wall first,, and did you let each coat dry properly before you out on the next one?
Why are you not happy with the wall finish on the front room side of the doorway?
Thanks for the message you sent, and i wish a Happy New year to you and yours too. ;)

I am a newbie to this site and plastering in general and I recently did a complete hallway/stairwell, only ever having done patch repairs before this.

I boxed in the stairwell drop and even boxed in some pipes and electrical conduit.

No-one told me you can't plaster over wood, but even plaster will stick when mixed with enough PVA glue...

However, I have a new problem someone here can help me with: Cement render to a bricked up doorway. I closed it up and the existing wall dressing is cement and plaster topcoat, so I thought I would give it a go.

PVA 50/50 to bare brick - leave to dry. Mix up 5/1 sand/cement. Sloppy mix. Like double cream but not as runny.

Applied to wall in 25mm coat. one hit. top to bottom. some places thicker others thinner. My brickwork not brilliant.

After about 30 minutes the whole lot fell off.

Mixed up new mix and ditto.

Advice needed very quickly 'cos tempers are volatile...
Advice with this job or shall I buy some thistle and go that way?
what you have done by using pva 50/50 is kill the suction off completey you need a bit of suction to pull the render into the wall if i was you i would go and buy a couple of bags of bonding and use that its for low suction backgrounds regards steve

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