Floating a solid wood floor any problems?

[WoodYouLike]

For starters, 8 cm wide Solid boards should never be installed floating, way to narrow so making the floor way to unstable and prone to cause the problems you are experiencing.
Then I also think the various lengths contain many short lengths? (Can only see one image on your facebook page at the moment - have clicked "add as friend")
As soon as I can see more images I make a better "judgement" but fear it is down to not using the right products in the right circumstances.

Anyone advised you on what (solid) floor type to use?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Most of the images are rather unfocused I'm afraid.
Overall impression: "cheap offer" type of solid floor: too many short lengths which on its own should not have been installed floating. Add the narrow width to it - same problem: unstable floor going all over the place.

Best advice? Rip out, get a proper quality product and a quality fitter to do the job.

 

[mointainwalker]

@WYL

I feel you are being rather hasty with your "rip-out'advice.

Even if this was cheap flooring, I'm sure it wasn't sold and installed cheaply.

If the result is now as bad as stated , the client needs to seriously try and get the fitter to take his responsibilities seriously. This may not only - hopefully - get some redress for her, but prevent this trader from happily continuing to leave other customers in a similar situation.

My suggestion would be :

1) Recorded-delivery letter to trader with detailed ( but realistic) list of faults and copy photos asking him to reply within 14 days with his suggestions- and time-scale - for resolving all complaints.

2_ If there is no reply/unacceptable reply, then another recorded-delivery letter stating that unless he replies within 14 days with acceptable proposals, you will get another tradesman to rectify the faults and you will then invoice him ( first fitter )for their work, and , in event of non-payment, start a claim for the money in the Small Claims Court.

By the way, your comment about 8 cm boards puzzles me : the OP mentions 12 cm.

 

[WoodYouLike]

@WYL
By the way, your comment about 8 cm boards puzzles me : the OP mentions 12 cm.

Before the editing it said 8cm, hence my remark, now it says 12cm. But that on its own doesn't change the fact a floor like this should never be installed floating.

Agree with getting the fitter back, but don't hold your breath convincing him he should change his ways.

We all know it's down to quality. If you purchase a floor like this, and often these types of floors are going cheaply online and offline, you don't want to pay as much or almost as much for the fitting as you paid for the product. And here is where fitters like these come in I'm afraid.

Believe me, we're in the trade for many years now and the fight is still on to get these cowboys down. But we need the help of the public - that's the only way to prevent what happens to DIYGirlz and many others from happening over and over again.

 

[DIYGirlz]

MointainWalker and WoodYouLike - thanks for your comments. Please note I amended my post after measuring the boards last evening, so apologies for confusion.
Please note this was not a cheap product! It was supplied by Howdens Joinery.
The flooring contractor insists that his method of fitting ('floating' a solid wood floor) is acceptable. He insists it was not necessary to allow wood to acclimatise before fitting. I am seeking advice from others experienced in this area as to whether he is stringing me along ! Appreciate views as to whether one should install a solid wood floor using the floating method and regards acclimatisation.

 

[DIYGirlz]

MointainWalker: Further to my last reply - if it's easier to form a reply having seen some images, please visit

 

[WoodYouLike]

Known howden products. Not saying they are cheap, but always doubting the quality of this type of solid floors that have way too many short lengths.

Anyway, did Howden gave you the details of this fitter or did your source him yourself? If the first, get them involved too immediately, they should take responsibility when recommending people.

Other way to go is contacting this person: independent inspector of especially wooden floors

Good luck with getting this sorted or at least some money back

 

[s1962a]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but we've got a similar problem with a 123mm wide walnut floor that was installed floating on my insistence after reading posts on this board.

The wood was left for several weeks to acclimitise and it was installed floating on a plywood base (was relatively flat when checking with spirit level). Expansion gaps have been left around but the floor has started lifting in places and 'bouncing' when stepped on. I don't think it's a fault of the wood itself, but put it down to the install method.

We are really unhappy with this installation, and aren't getting any help from the installer (not reachable after works were completed), so not an option to follow up.

Anyway, we would like to stop stressing about this and sort this out by doing either the following:-

1) take up this floor and install it again using the secret nail method.
2) countersunk screws and plugs for each board

What would you recommend?

If we went for the first option, how difficult would the boards be to take apart if they have been glued at the tongue? I'm hoping we can salvage most of the boards by tapping them apart with a rubber mallet.

Anything else I could consider?

 

[WoodYouLike]

How long ago was this floor installed, how long ago did the problems start?
What type of underlayment was used, how wide a gaps were left?
How thick is the walnut and how long are the boards?

Any recent leaks, increase of air humidity? (Or perhaps even bought a new tumble-dryer with a different system than before?)_

 

[s1962a]

How long ago was this floor installed, how long ago did the problems start?
What type of underlayment was used, how wide a gaps were left?
How thick is the walnut and how long are the boards?

Any recent leaks, increase of air humidity? (Or perhaps even bought a new tumble-dryer with a different system than before?)_

Floor was installed about 3 months ago and problems started in the last month or so since the cold weather.

The base is 1" WBP plywood screwed onto joists with celotex insulation between the joists.

The walnut is 18mm thick and approx 120mm wide (think it's 123m), and are random lengths between 400-1700. I wouldn't say there are too many short lengths, but it is definately mixed. Expansion gap is roughly 15mm around I think. We took some of the skirting off to check if the boards were now touching the wall due to a small expansion gap but they aren't.

The only change recently has been the cold weather and the fact we've had the heating on for most of the day (wall radiators, no UFH). It's in the lounge so nowhere near any tumble dryers etc.

Thanks for your advice!

 

[WoodYouLike]

What underlayment between plywood and walnut floor? Are all T&G's glued?

Cold weather means normally lower air humidity and shrinkage of wood. Expansion gaps still there means no real expansion. All might be down to indeed heating season, short lengths making the floor more unstable (prone to movement) than all long lengths.

Have you checked the air humidity? If very low - which is normal this time of year - try to increase it (water containers on radiators or even wet t-towels on radiators).

 

[s1962a]

What underlayment between plywood and walnut floor? Are all T&G's glued?

Cold weather means normally lower air humidity and shrinkage of wood. Expansion gaps still there means no real expansion. All might be down to indeed heating season, short lengths making the floor more unstable (prone to movement) than all long lengths.

Have you checked the air humidity? If very low - which is normal this time of year - try to increase it (water containers on radiators or even wet t-towels on radiators).

Thanks - it probably is exactly as you say due to air humidity and the wood shrinking. Will try the methods of increasing air humidity.

All T&G's are glued, although i'm not sure how well because where the floor is bouncy it feels like the glue joint might have broken.

If we did decide to take apart the floor and relay it, how would you suggest we take apart the boards (rubber mallet?) and clean up the glue before relaying?

ThankYou

 

[WoodYouLike]

Before you start taking the floor apart again - high chance you will break some of the tongues in the process - see how it reacts when you do get the humidity higher.
Wood is a product of nature and this season the humidity dropped rather quickly, effecting many more floors than normal. Give it time is most often the best solution.