Floor joist tot

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9 Aug 2021
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I'm in the process of repairing significant rot in a 1930s semi. House has been empty for about 6 years and neglected for much longer - old hoarder who moved into a home then passed away.

The stop tap in the kitchen was leaking and most of the boards/joists are rotten.

In the adjacent dining room there's also a lot of rot. The joist ends poke through into the kitchen, and I'm wondering if this is the source of moisture.

There also seems to have been water ingress around the front door causing rot in the hallway.

Existing joists are 100x50mm with dwarf walls supporting them around every 1.1-1.2 metres. The timbers rest on a DPM on each dwarf wall with no wall plates.

My intention is to cut out anything rotten and replace with treated regularised 95x45mm C16 timber. I'll paint the joist ends with dry base. While the floors are up it's a good time to insulate between the joists with 100mm rockwool with netting. Then replace floorboards throughout the three rooms with 18mm chipboard.

My question is, what's the best way to pack up the 5mm to get the new joists to match remaining old ones? If I bed them on mortar, will this just crumble eventually? Would 6mm ply be close enough? Would plastic packers compress over time?

Also do I need to worry about any other treatment? I'm no expert in identifying wet vs dry rot. I couldn't see any fungus travelling along brickwork. Should I spray any remaining timber in these rooms?
 
I have never seen plastic shims compress under those kind of loads. If concerned that they might shift, I glue them together.
 
Oh, and with the coach bolts used for sistering, what washers do I need for the head end of the bolt? They have the square section that normally forces into the wood, so do I need washers with larger holes?
 
Toothed washers
 

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