Floor preparation - Concrete, bitumen adhesive, Marley tiles

[au8830]

I have an early 1970s bungalow with concrete floor. Every room was covered in thermoplastic ("Marley") tiles, attached with a thin layer of bituminous adhesive.

The tiles have been removed in some rooms, leaving the bitumen, probably <1mm thick, and not sticky.

In most rooms, the tiles are still in place, in varying conditions. Previous carpet fitters have nailed gripper rods through the tiles, so the perimeter tiles are all cracked and the edge pieces have been discarded due to getting sucked up when vacuuming.

I'm not sure what to do now. I notice that in one room, somebody has used some kind of creamy-coloured filler/resin to fill in broken pieces of the tiles and this seems to have held up well. Any idea of a suitable product for filling, or am I better off just pulling them up?

But then what to do about the bitumen adhesive?

I was considering sheet vinyl flooring, so have concerns about uneven levels generally, but also staining coming through from the old tile adhesive. Would laminate with underlay be less hassle? (I initially disregarded the idea of laminate/wood due to uneven screed levels)

 

[dazlight]

How old is the bungalow?
Does the floor have a damp proof membrane under it?

You could remove the old adhesive and DPM and screed the floor.

You could use a laminate with a moisture barrier underlay.

 

[au8830]

Thanks for your reply.

It was built 1970/71. I would like to think (but have not proven) that there is a separate DPM if only because the black tile adhesive hasn't been applied to the edges of rooms (although the tiles were), nor was it tiled underneath kitchen cupboards (bare concrete).

 

[Tuscan1]

Thanks for your reply.

It was built 1970/71. I would like to think (but have not proven) that there is a separate DPM if only because the black tile adhesive hasn't been applied to the edges of rooms (although the tiles were), nor was it tiled underneath kitchen cupboards (bare concrete).

You can latex over both your adhesive problem and your tiles using Arditex Latex without any problem then your good to lay any Vinyl flooring without further problem

 

[dazlight]

If you don't have a DPM there will be a big problem

 

[Tuscan1]

If you don't have a DPM there will be a big problem

There clearly would be a membrane in place within the foundations as it was built for residential dwelings.

 

[Tuscan1]

In 1965 it was made mandatory for all new buildings to incorporate a damp proof membrane

 

[dazlight]

It might of been in 1965 but I work in houses that were built in the 70s that don't have one. Just because it was made mandatory in 1965 doesn't mean it was always done.
That's why always best to test a floor for moisture.

Also the existing DPM could be damaged.

 

[lymmranger]

It might of been in 1965 but I work in houses that were built in the 70s that don't have one. Just because it was made mandatory in 1965 doesn't mean it was always done.
That's why always best to test a floor for moisture.

Also the existing DPM could be damaged.

Completely agree...........

...........the builders relied on the bitumen holding back the damp!

..........removing the "marley tiles" actually reduces the effectiveness of your properties damp protection!!!!!!!!!!

.......other posters are about to cry "foul" BUT.........

dazlight works in flooring and I used to

............trust us!

 

[Tuscan1]

My 17yrs in the trade is just diminished then &#128514;&#128514;

 

[dazlight]

I've been laying floors for 26 years not that that's means anything when A floor comes up because you didn't test it. Which I have found out the hard way.

Your post above said you can latex over the old adhesive with no problems. Which is true in most cases.

All I'm saying is find out if a effictive DPM is in place by doing a test before screeding it

 

[matthubert]

I will advise you to get completely new flooring. If you go for some sort of repairs. It will not stay for a long time and again, you need to spend on repairs. If you are planning for longtime renovation, its better to have completely new renovation.

 

[popandu]

Picking up on an old thread here; I understand Ardex do not advise their Arditex NA product be used over bitumen. They do advise to take up the bitumen as it won't bond properly. I would say the reason for this is bitumen can become unstable according to the temperature of the floor itself.

What was the result on this one au8830??

I have come across the same problem on a kitchen floor with thermoplastic tiles and bitumen underneath. I am somewhat stumped on the way to go due to the asbestos risk in both the tiles AND bitumen. As far as I can see, the safest way around this is to get a professional company in to remove it all and then be left with a clean slate as such on which to then use self levelling compound etc...

Any advise??

 

[Tuscan1]

Picking up on an old thread here; I understand Ardex do not advise their Arditex NA product be used over bitumen. They do advise to take up the bitumen as it won't bond properly. I would say the reason for this is bitumen can become unstable according to the temperature of the floor itself.

What was the result on this one au8830??

I have come across the same problem on a kitchen floor with thermoplastic tiles and bitumen underneath. I am somewhat stumped on the way to go due to the asbestos risk in both the tiles AND bitumen. As far as I can see, the safest way around this is to get a professional company in to remove it all and then be left with a clean slate as such on which to then use self levelling compound etc...

Arditex NA is rubbish you want Arditex Yellow bag sticks to everything
Any advise??