French drain / ACO / hiding waste pipe

[Craig24]

I have an 1890s terraced. At some point in the past it's had a concrete rear yard and then flags have been laid on top, all right up the the house.

To help with damp, I remove around 100mm of flagging around the house, this appears to have helped.

Now I've since had my kitchen sink moved and I need to run the waste pipe 2-3 meters around the wall to the drain, this pipe is currently sat in this gap I've created.

It looks a bit unsightly so I am looking for my best option, should I break the concrete base up and bury the pipe, then cover with gravel? Bit concerned with having gravel right up to my house, or a suggestion from a builder was to break the concrete up at the wall, install a deep ACO type drain, hide the pipe in the bottom of it, running them both all the way to the drain, hoping this would also stop damp at the base of the wall?

Does this sound like a good / bad idea? I don't really want to dig up too much or lower the height of the whole patio.

 

[ree]

OP,
Why not post pics showing the wall & yard abutment from the yard side - a large context pic is best?
And a pic showing the inside where the w/m used to be?

 

[Craig24]

 

[Craig24]

 

[Craig24]

OP,
Why not post pics showing the wall & yard abutment from the yard side - a large context pic is best?
And a pic showing the inside where the w/m used to be?

Thanks, few photos attached as you suggested

 

[ree]

OP,
Just a few IMO things for you to think about or pick & choose?

The problem with your above suggestions is that the bottom courses of bricks in pic one is crumbling - which suggests that best practice would be to lift the flags and break out the concrete.
You would then have the possibility of replacing the perished brickwork, & setting a new ground level - & perhaps installing a physical DPC.
There's evidence of previous DPC injection holes for what they are worth given you seem to have a cavity wall - but is it an 1890 cavity wall or a solid wall?

There's also the matter of the existing "gulley" or whatever it is, & where its draining to? Where's the nearest manhole?
Ref the unsightliness then the best option could be for a buried sink waste connected to a bottle gully inlet?

Do you have sold floors? If you have solid floors - do they have DPM's? There's no sign of air bricks for suspended floors?
Can you post pics of the internal damp damage?
FWIW: the pointing needs raking out to 25mm & re-pointing with lime mortar.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

It is rather a long run, Buildings Regs frown on anything longer than 3 metres in 40mm, ideally needs to upsize to 50mm after 3m. I'd also bear in mind, coming from a sink, it could be liable to clog up over time, so bear in mind access for cleaning should it be required.

Ideally the run needs shortening, and running to a Gully nearer where it emerges, but digging the Gaff up to install one, along with required drainage is, I suspect, unlikely to happen, so need to make the best of what you have.

For simplicity in this case, I'd suggest going with your idea of burying the pipe in some gravel, although for belt and braces I'd lay a thin strip of polythene in a 'L' shape along the bottom/turned up the wall, drop pipe in, fill with gravel, and trim polythene to suit along the top. Conceals the pipe and gives option to pull it out, should it require cleaning.

Just ensure adequate fall along the pipe, you don't want dips where water and waste can collect.

 

[Craig24]

OP,
Just a few IMO things for you to think about or pick & choose?

The problem with your above suggestions is that the bottom courses of bricks in pic one is crumbling - which suggests that best practice would be to lift the flags and break out the concrete.
You would then have the possibility of replacing the perished brickwork, & setting a new ground level - & perhaps installing a physical DPC.
There's evidence of previous DPC injection holes for what they are worth given you seem to have a cavity wall - but is it an 1890 cavity wall or a solid wall?

There's also the matter of the existing "gulley" or whatever it is, & where its draining to? Where's the nearest manhole?
Ref the unsightliness then the best option could be for a buried sink waste connected to a bottle gully inlet?

Do you have sold floors? If you have solid floors - do they have DPM's? There's no sign of air bricks for suspended floors?
Can you post pics of the internal damp damage?
FWIW: the pointing needs raking out to 25mm & re-pointing with lime mortar.

Thanks for the reply, it does have a very narrow cavity and has a sort of asphalt / tar damp course from what I can tell?

There is no manhole anywhere, yes I have solid floors, I believe they were filled in around 30 years ago, it has a DPC sheet, concrete and then asphalt.

It is rather a long run, Buildings Regs frown on anything longer than 3 metres in 40mm, ideally needs to upsize to 50mm after 3m. I'd also bear in mind, coming from a sink, it could be liable to clog up over time, so bear in mind access for cleaning should it be required.

Ideally the run needs shortening, and running to a Gully nearer where it emerges, but digging the Gaff up to install one, along with required drainage is, I suspect, unlikely to happen, so need to make the best of what you have.

For simplicity in this case, I'd suggest going with your idea of burying the pipe in some gravel, although for belt and braces I'd lay a thin strip of polythene in a 'L' shape along the bottom/turned up the wall, drop pipe in, fill with gravel, and trim polythene to suit along the top. Conceals the pipe and gives option to pull it out, should it require cleaning.

Just ensure adequate fall along the pipe, you don't want dips where water and waste can collect.

Thanks! I know this isn't best practice but I think is going to be my best option until I decide if I am going to re do the whole garden / patio.

 

[Scally-Ho]

Is that a plastic soil pipe I spy just to the right of that gully opening?

 

[Craig24]

Yes it is

 

[noseall]

Yes it is

Connect to the drains and take a gully up to the waste exit by the wall.

 

[Scally-Ho]

Not only run a new underground drain from the below ground part of the soil stack, but remove that existing gully if no other wate outlet is using it. If a job is worth doing, it is worth doing properly. Also, I'd advise an ABS solvent-weld waste pipe system and ditch that push-fit PP rubbish.
It's all not a low-cost solution, but a proper one when completed