Gap between plasterboard and floor?

[Richard C]

1. Do i fill the gap with adhesive and tile OR make this bottom gap smaller by adding another strip of plasterboard (maybe 100mm) making sure not to go flush down on the floor. This giving some support to bottom row of tiles?

That’s a bit unfortunate but, personally, I’d space the PB off the floor by 12mm & put another strip in the top.

2. Does the hardibacker/aquapanel go down to the floor THEN the shower tray (45mm deep) butted up against before tiling?

Unless your tight for space do it as you say fit the backer board then shower tray, then tile up from that; leave a 2mm gap between the tray & the 1st tile for silicone seal.

3. Is it do'able to dot dab hardibacker + thru frame fixings whilst still have enough gap for 15mm copper piping to be hidden behind?

15mm is too much to space off with D&D; either chase the wall for the pipes or use timber battens.

Also outside i have a new upvc window with 2 concrete lintels above(inner/outer) with damp course spanning above the inner lintel ,down across cavity and under outer lintel. Where the damp course is ie. loose under the outer lintel –

4. How do i render up onto it without the dpc falling off the underside of the outer concrete lintel, and without the fresh render from falling off the surface of the dpc.

Apologies if Q4. sounds confusing , i may have to show a pic

Not sure I follow that one , lets have a pic.

 

[mazears]

Thanks again. Do you mean 12mm or 120mm gap? Will get lintel pic up tomoz and more questions i'm sure!

 

[Richard C]

12mm

 

[Chukka63]

i prefer the board onto the shower, system myself.

 

[1john]

personally i like the board behind the tray, with a bead of silicone applied between the top of the tray and the board once the tray is in and then the 2mm gap between tile and tray as richard suggests, this size gap is good, it is neat and is enough to get the silicone lodged in tightly behind so it doesnt peel out.