Plasterboard

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Hi
I'm ready to have my extension plastered also putting a screed on the floor. walls will be dot and dab then skimmed, my question is can I screed the floor before the plasterboard goes on the walls or should the plasterboard go on first, or does it matter??
 
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If it’s at all possible to convince you, go for a full “float & set” rather than D&D & a quick skim; undoubtedly more expensive but it is a proper job & makes sense on a new extension in many ways. :LOL:

If you stick with D&D, screed the floor first as already advised & leave a 10-12mm gap between the boards & the floor. ;)
 
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sorry to but in, what's the best way to leave the gap?
prop the board up on spacers until the D&D is set then remove, or can you get some sort of cork or plastic strip to sit the boards on..?

is the gap to stop damp from the floor wicking up the boards, or is it for expansion?
 
Richard C wrote,
If it’s at all possible to convince you, go for a full “float & set” rather than D&D & a quick skim; undoubtedly more expensive but it is a proper job & makes sense on a new extension in many ways.
I would agree with Rich'd 100%, but then i'm not a fan of D&D anyway,,, :rolleyes:
and yes Coljack, the gap at the bottom is important, "especially" with the floor being screeded, it would be liable to wick up any moisture as you said, plus it's always better for a movement gap to be left at the bottom anyway, that's the way it's done, whether it's plaster/p.board to a solid floor, or plaster/p.board to a timber floor. It's all covered with the skirtings..

Roughcaster.
 
sorry to but in, what's the best way to leave the gap?
prop the board up on spacers until the D&D is set then remove, or can you get some sort of cork or plastic strip to sit the boards on..?

Personally, I tap in a couple of screws in to stop initial slippage and take them out after a couple of hours when the adhesive has gone off.

Also, one contractor I worked with did the boarding and skimming first, and laid the screed after.

His reasoning being that it meant that any muck dropped on the floor could either be scraped up without damaging any new screed and any minor remnants would be covered by insulation and screed anyway. Not sure what his objections to dustsheets were :rolleyes: Second was it was easier to pencil draw accurate finished floor levels on the plaster than the brickwork behind, although I couldn't quite work this logic out when you had flaps of DPM in the way ;)

Well, that was his way of working and he seemed happy with it.
 
We do it either way. If stud walls need to be built off the floor then we will screed first.

But there is logic in laying the screed last, as said earlier - no mess.
 
We do it either way. If stud walls need to be built off the floor then we will screed first.

But there is logic in laying the screed last, as said earlier - no mess.

Sorry guys, I disagree with many things said on this forum; The floor should be screeded first. Then you set your boards 10mm of the finished screed. Also, dry lining is quicker, cheeper, flatter, warmer, has greater sound attenuation and can be decorated far sooner. I am talking, of course about dry-lying and skimming; I never recommend taping. Moreover, if the screed is a semi-dry sand/cement it should have a self levelling compound applied prior to the plastering; this stops scuffing and aids the cleaning immensely. in fact, sod the screed, and put in a floating floor - mega quick, mega warm and idiot proof. only down side is that it can be difficult to match up with original floor level.

Nick
 

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