Gate Valve "spinning"

[cycyc]

Apologies if this has been answered before.

So I could change the washer I closed the gate valve to the bath cold feed. No matter how far I turned I couldn't fully shut off the water... so I abandoned it and decided to open it again, unfortunately it would appear that in now doesn't open - I just have a trickle!

I've had a look around the web and it looks like the shaft might have broken (example at the bottom of this link)

Is it a case of:
1. Buying a new valve (it has 22mm stamped on it - this standard?)
2. Turn off water to it (possibly involve cutting of water and draining the tank)
3. Undo the nuts pointed to by the red arrows

4. Put in new one and tighten up
5. Turn water back on

This the right way and have I missed anything?

Thanks

baz

 

[JPC]

that would do...or

you could bung the water outlet instead of wasting the water and you can undo the other nut that you can see in the picture and then no need to undo the 2 you pointed out

 

[tryitandsee]

Some times the red wheel is made of very soft steel, The square hole that fits over the valve shank wears away into a 'round hole', so the wheel turns but does not turn the shank, either on or off.

Take off the red wheel first and see if it is that, if so, just get replacement wheel, or turn shank with mole grips for interim.

 

[cycyc]

you could bung the water outlet instead of wasting the water and you can undo the other nut that you can see in the picture and then no need to undo the 2 you pointed out

Do you mean put a bung in the water tank itself?! Seems a good idea!

Well, I've just (slightly) undone this one and water starts to come out of join... not sure how this helps?! (assume this is the one you meant!)

Some times the red wheel is made of very soft steel, The square hole that fits over the valve shank wears away into a 'round hole', so the wheel turns but does not turn the shank, either on or off.

Take off the red wheel first and see if it is that, if so, just get replacement wheel, or turn shank with mole grips for interim.

Checked the red wheel... it's intact and shaft is definitely turning!

Looks like replacing is the route, do I need to solder/cut anything or should it be a simple replace job??

Thanks again people!!

baz

 

[superdupergasman]

you dont need to solder or cut,

Just put a bung in the tank feed to this pipe, slacken nuts with a towel wrapped round, whip out old valve, stick in new one and tighten up!!

 

[JPC]

no cutting

just bung the outlet in the tank...so no water goes down that pipe...you can buy bungs

but it will be cheaper (if not going to use the bungs again) to turn the water off to the house and just open the hot tap till it stops running

then undo the nut as described and replace it with the new one (having undo it at thew same place (it has to be the same model...but most are)

if not, do same but undo it at the nuts you said, this will work..other way can some times be easier if pipes have no play

 

[seco services]

change it for a lever valve, bin the cr*p gate valves

 

[cycyc]

UPDATE: I waited for a full day and finally got around to doing this!

just bung the outlet in the tank...so no water goes down that pipe...you can buy bungs

Unfortunately, B&Q didn't have their "plumping expert" to hand and couldn't point me in the direction of a bung - probably thought I meant a brown paper bag full of money!! ha ha!

Ended up draining the tanks over 2 days, using the water for baths etc. Did both cold water and the hot water it supplied since I needed to replace the washers on to hot water taps anyway - thought might as well do this at the same time!

I think it's save to say the old gate value was knackered and possibly broke in the worst possible position!! leaving a 2mm gap... unbelievable, yet typical!!

Unfortunately couldn't get in enough, to pull out this bit:

Went my first route and undid the 2 nuts and re-used them and the compression bit (?) mainly 'cos I couldn't remove them!!

All works great, the biggest trouble I had was replacing the washers in the tap!!! Shameful! I couldn't believe the differences between 2 versions of the 1/2" tap washer, spent an hour trying to get the wilkos one in... far too big!!

change it for a lever valve, bin the cr*p gate valves

I would do if there wasn't so many to replace!!

Anyway, I would like to thank you all for your help and advice!!!

baz

 

[ChrisR]

couldn't point me in the direction of a bung

Big ball of plumber's mate/mait, or standard window putty.

 

[WDIK]

carrots

 

[TicklyT]

Parsnips!

Dowelling or broom handle wrapped with plenty of PVC electrical tape.

 

[BigBurner]

I hope you replaced the gate valve with a full bore valve. With 1/4 turn valves all you do is once a year turn it off and on to make sure it is not stuck. Takes seconds.