GUTTED

I think you have dug yourself a bit of a hole with the way you have gone about it ie not using an Electrician (and the notification part)
All I will say is you might be able to get round the problem of it being too close to the surface for it's power by using a transformer to lower the voltage, possibly to 110V, and thus lowering the power to approx. one quarter.
This would possibly give you some warmth through the tiles in conjunction with the thermostat, but

This is only a suggestion and should by no means be carried out by anyone not competant
 
Sponsored Links
I think you have dug yourself a bit of a hole with the way you have gone about it ie not using an Electrician (and the notification part)
All I will say is you might be able to get round the problem of it being too close to the surface for it's power by using a transformer to lower the voltage, possibly to 110V, and thus lowering the power by approx. one quarter.
This would possibly give you some warmth through the tiles in conjunction with the thermostat, but

This is only a suggestion and should by no means be carried out by anyone not competant

Thanks Ricicle,

I will look into this tomorrow - many thanks for the glimmer !

Speak soon

Gary
 
Sponsored Links
Strange isn't it - flameport says the product has been incorrectly installed, and gets a thumbs up for it.

ricicle says the OP should should chase whoever installed it for you, and gets a thumbs up for it.

I say the same things and get 4 people (at least) giving me a thumbs down.

Do you ****s actually believe that you are seen as behaving sensibly, and rationally, and in a way which benefits the forum?
 
Hmm - instructions say 230V :?:

If these are the relevant instructions they also say, with absolute clarity and total lack of ambiguity and confusing technobabble:

After laying a minimum 50mm sand and cement screed, the heating cables must be checked once again for continuity and connected by a qualified electrician.

How on earth can someone completely ignore the instructions which come with a product they are installing?
 
That's what I said.

Well "incompetent buffoon" actually, and as my dictionary defines "buffoon" as "a foolish person", and as it seemed to me (and still does) the height of foolishness to ignore the instructions on installing part of thousands of pounds worth of floor, I thought it a perfectly reasonable thing to say.

At least 3 people didn't, but can't seem to come up with any explanation why, not even one that only makes sense to them.
 
I have my doubts about this O/P. I think that he's misunderstood the situation, that he's short on information - and that some of you have been misled by agreeing with his 'fears'.

I've dealt with a number of UFH companies these past ten years, or so, but not one of them have specified their product to be encased in a 2" screed. The very idea of that is ridiculous. "Industrial" indeed!

Heating cables, on a ground floor, ideally ought to be laid above a screed which in turn is laid on an insulating slab. They only need to give off their warmth to the tile above and not the planet beneath.....


Lucia.
 
gaz1000gaz";p="1823862 said:
Its a Devi Deviflex DSIG-20 sinlgle conductor loosewire floor. The spec sheet says the following

Voltage 400v AC
Effect 20 W/m
Max temp 65 degrees
We have run it directly into the fuse board

The general problem appears to be the floor adhesive will get very hot (and i imagine crack etc). The cable should have 50-60mm of screed above it before a tile or slab etc - we only have 10-15 mm of adhesive above it then the 8mm floor tile.Gary

65 degrees isn't overly hot. Have you checked the spec on the adhesive ?

If that can cope with the temp then I'd be inclined to turn the whole lot on and see how it goes.
 
There's another thing...

On p2:

IMPORTANT
  • Before laying check the continuity of the cable, it should match the Ohm rating on the heating cable label with a tolerance of -5 to +10%.
    .
    .
  • After installation of the heating cables, the continuity should be checked again.
  • After laying a minimum 50mm sand and cement screed, the heating cables must be checked once again for continuity...

    On p6:
  • Check the insulation resistance between the conductor and the earth screen, this should read infinity.
I wonder if all those electrical tests were done, and if so by whom and with what?
 
Agreed with the testing...

Have you thought about adding another layer of finished flooring? Might work out cheaper than a full rip up and replace as long as door crossovers are considered might be an avenue to rule out?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top