At least 1 person thinks I shouldn't even be allowed to wonder about it.
These ****s just aren't going to give up voluntarily, are they.
GUTTED
- Thread starter gaz1000gaz
- Start date
These ****s just aren't going to give up voluntarily, are they.
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I wouldn't give a toss about it (them) dude. Let them have fun with their little forum toys
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The people that find this forum out are seeking advice.
Who here provides advice?
Those are the people that the visitors want to read from and are the forum's most valuable members.
T
tonyelectric
i'd be tempted to abandon the underfloor heating, leave your nice new floor in tact and get a decent spark or plumber to fit you electric or hot water plinth heaters instead.
You could try it out, but at the end of the day if it goes wrong you could be left with a ruined floor and as it wasn't fitted properly no hope of insurance.
Really the numbty who did the work should pay to put it right, he should have insurance for this.
You may be able to get away with running it at 110V but you should check with the makers first that this won't cause any additional problems and if you do that you will need to calculate how large a transformer you need, if it needs to be an isolating transformer or not and where you can put it.
Best of luck
You could try it out, but at the end of the day if it goes wrong you could be left with a ruined floor and as it wasn't fitted properly no hope of insurance.
Really the numbty who did the work should pay to put it right, he should have insurance for this.
You may be able to get away with running it at 110V but you should check with the makers first that this won't cause any additional problems and if you do that you will need to calculate how large a transformer you need, if it needs to be an isolating transformer or not and where you can put it.
Best of luck
Without the thermal mass of the screed providing thermal inertia the normal control may not be stable. The thermostatic control may not work properly.
Using 110 volt will bring the heat output down to about 5 watts per metre. An alternative would be to energise at 230 volts for one second, then off for 3 seconds which would also limit heat to 1/4 of rated output.
I would calculate how much heat is needed in the room and then adjust the ratio of on-off to to provide that much heat. But it would require a special control module.
but the manufacturers would need to be consulted on this method of control
The other point of worry is that without the thermal mass of the screed to spread the heat evenly the area above the heating wire will be hotter than the area between wires and this temperature difference may put expansion generated stress into the tiles.
Using 110 volt will bring the heat output down to about 5 watts per metre. An alternative would be to energise at 230 volts for one second, then off for 3 seconds which would also limit heat to 1/4 of rated output.
I would calculate how much heat is needed in the room and then adjust the ratio of on-off to to provide that much heat. But it would require a special control module.
but the manufacturers would need to be consulted on this method of control
The other point of worry is that without the thermal mass of the screed to spread the heat evenly the area above the heating wire will be hotter than the area between wires and this temperature difference may put expansion generated stress into the tiles.
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P
PrinceofDarkness
Bernard, this Devi wire is also suitable for wooden floors/renovated floors etc: So, where does that fit into your theory about 'thermal mass' and 'thermal inertia' of a (minimum) 2" sand/cement heat-sink?
You're surely not suggesting that (for example) a 1st floor timber floor would have to be floated with a 2" screed, are you?
I've seen this particular 'Devi' system of single-wire laid on an over-boarded 20mm plywood floor a few times. Sometimes, the tiler or his electrician had routed-out 6mm channels in the ply to make the tiling easier - and other times I've seen the tiles laid on an extra-thick bed of adhesive directly on the heating wires.
The O/P hasn't indicated the spacing between the wires, which of course would have an effect on the output Watts per Metre. He hasn't made himself clear whether he's on about linear Metres or Square Metres, and whether he's used one continuous coil length or two or more over this "15 meters".
So I remain sceptical about this......
Lucia.
You're surely not suggesting that (for example) a 1st floor timber floor would have to be floated with a 2" screed, are you?
I've seen this particular 'Devi' system of single-wire laid on an over-boarded 20mm plywood floor a few times. Sometimes, the tiler or his electrician had routed-out 6mm channels in the ply to make the tiling easier - and other times I've seen the tiles laid on an extra-thick bed of adhesive directly on the heating wires.
The O/P hasn't indicated the spacing between the wires, which of course would have an effect on the output Watts per Metre. He hasn't made himself clear whether he's on about linear Metres or Square Metres, and whether he's used one continuous coil length or two or more over this "15 meters".
So I remain sceptical about this......
Lucia.
It is the manufacturers who say the screed is necessary.
Perhaps a different type of element is used on timber floors with under floor electric heating.
Personally I would not be happy having heating cables laid in milled out plywood. The the thought of a failing element creating a hot spot with associated fire risks comes to mind.
I know my neighbour decided on a wet system ( hot water pipes ) for his underfloor heating because of the problems of properly installing electric under floor heating.
Gary - what was the outcome of this?
really sorry for not replying sooner re the floor. Basically Devi say that the floor is capable of producing significant heat, however as long as we never go above say the halfway on the heat dial it should be fine. 12 months in and all good !!! Fingers crossed.
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