Halstead Ace High ignition problem

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Hello!

This is really a post to help satisfy my curiosity more than anything else, and perhaps help out with a long-running problem that our plumber hasn't so far been able to fix completely. I'm just wondering whether I might be on the right track.

I'm a tenant in a property that has a Halstead Ace High combi boiler. Since we moved in three months ago we've had all kinds of problems with the thing, requiring tons and tons of plumber callouts. We've had a holed diaphragm, a busted expansion vessel, and now (this has been going on the whole time, actually, alongside other problems), the boiler simply fails to ignite with no advanced warning and for no apparent reason. When we turn on a hot tap / the heating, the fan starts, the boiler registers the demand for hot water, but it doesn't ignite. It does not lock out or overheat. Pressure has been steady at exactly 1.45 bar for the last week and it's failed several times during that period.

The plumber has had to come out a few times, and has usually managed to get the thing firing again, but usually by way of vague fiddling rather than actually doing anything definitive, and it usually happens again within a few days. He doesn't know what the actual problem is, apart from it being a crappy boiler.

Anyway, by mistake the other day I discovered that, when it fails to ignite, if you leave the hot tap open for quite a long time (3-4 minutes), the boiler does light. I've tried this successfully twice in a row, so it could just be a fluke. But my theory at this point is perhaps that one of the thermistors is faulty. Would that cause this kind of behaviour? I was thinking perhaps that it works when the tap's left on because leaving the tap open with the boiler 'off' might be flushing tons of cold water through it, cooling down the thermistor and 'resetting' it (I don't really know what I'm on about as you can see). Does this sound possible/likely? I know thermistors don't tend to fail that often but does it sound possible? What else might it be, if not?

I know it's a simple enough job to test a thermistor with a multimeter but I have not opened the boiler case or looked inside, and will not be doing so. I want hot water but not enough to do illegal gas work or put myself, my gf or our neighbours in danger of CO leaks or anything like that. What I want is to be able to put this possibility to the plumber the next time he (inevitably) comes around and not feel like a plum for doing so. I would do this diplomatically of course; I don't want to seem like I'm teaching my grandmother to suck eggs!

Finally, I know the real solution is "chuck out that pile of crap and get a decent boiler", but as mentioned, we're tenants. And have you ever tried to convince a landlord to spend the thick end of a thousand quid on installing a new boiler when the old one could limp on a bit longer?

Thank you everyone!
 
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Hi.

I think really you need to contact a boiler engineer rather than a plumber (and that's coming from a plumber) :D
 
To be fair he is a gas safe boiler engineer, I just say plumber as a shorthand :)
Really I guess im after a second opinion at this point!
 
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I assume the fan is running? Couldn't hear it due to background noise.
However the fault will almost certainly be related to components within the combustion chamber. It sounds like no ignition attempt is being made. I'm sorry, but diy gas advice is verboten on this site.
Change your boiler repairer.
 
On that model those faults are often caused by a faulty PCB.

But before changing that there are several other things which must be checked first!

Tony
 
I assume the fan is running? Couldn't hear it due to background noise.
However the fault will almost certainly be related to components within the combustion chamber. It sounds like no ignition attempt is being made. I'm sorry, but diy gas advice is verboten on this site.
Change your boiler repairer.


Yeah, as mentioned in the OP, the fan is running. There's no ignition attempt. And no I won't be attempting repairs myself. The problem with changing the boiler repairman is that we're tenants and our landlord has a standing agreement with this one company. And while the current engineers are attempting to fix it (and it's ~mostly~ working at the moment, if intermittently) it's hard to convince the landlord to change to someone else.

My purpose here, then, is to try and gain some wider advice from other experts so I can put them to the engineer and hopefully get the actual issue fixed a little faster. It's not an ideal situation, but it's where I am right now. It's a bit delicate.

On that model those faults are often caused by a faulty PCB.

But before changing that there are several other things which must be checked first!

Tony

I can understand it possibly being a faulty PCB, yeah. What might those other possibilities be, though? I was thinking, as mentioned, that a dodgy thermistor might be something to do with it, especially as running tons of cold water through the boiler (IE leaving the hot tap open) has, on a couple of occasions so far, got the thing to light in the end.
 
my daughter has the same boiler and experienced similar problems. and what I learnt was.
Regarding ' hot water', you can have a situation where the diverter has not moved fully across and not triggered the micro switch. This is caused by a faulty diaphragm. or the diverter does move fully across and the micro switch is triggered but if the contacts on micro switch are dirty/burnt boiler may not light (intermittent)
On another occasion boiler would not always light and she reported she could get it to light by tapping side of casing.
She was on a British Gas scheme and I was present while heating engineer searched for the fault, which turned out to be the PCB,
Some components at the rear of the pcb had poorly soldered joints and arcing was noticed. These joints were resoldered and problem solved. That must hve been about two years back
Also had the problem of losing pressure. The expansion vessel was never proved to be faulty, but the pipe connecting vessel to boiler seemed to be partially blocked so a new external vessel fitted with copper connecting pipes. A new Pressure relief valve also fitted
 
my daughter has the same boiler and experienced similar problems. and what I learnt was.
Regarding ' hot water', you can have a situation where the diverter has not moved fully across and not triggered the micro switch. This is caused by a faulty diaphragm. or the diverter does move fully across and the micro switch is triggered but if the contacts on micro switch are dirty/burnt boiler may not light (intermittent)
On another occasion boiler would not always light and she reported she could get it to light by tapping side of casing.
She was on a British Gas scheme and I was present while heating engineer searched for the fault, which turned out to be the PCB,
Some components at the rear of the pcb had poorly soldered joints and arcing was noticed. These joints were resoldered and problem solved. That must hve been about two years back
Also had the problem of losing pressure. The expansion vessel was never proved to be faulty, but the pipe connecting vessel to boiler seemed to be partially blocked so a new external vessel fitted with copper connecting pipes. A new Pressure relief valve also fitted

This is very useful information; thank you very much. Yes, the expansion vessel has been replaced with an external one, and the boiler keeps pressure pretty much perfectly now (it didn't before). The problem is just the failure to ignite. If (when) it fails again, I'll mention to the engineer that the PCB might have poorly-soldered joints; he's mentioned in the past that he's thought the PCB looked dodgy before (he didn't elaborate on what he meant exactly) but I may see how he feels about resoldering components. I know that replacing the PCB is the thick end of 200 quid to replace for this boiler (and may have the same ****ty problems).
 
You'll find the manual for your boiler on here.
see under tab for manufacturer information,then down to halstead, then ace/ace high


https://www.heatingspares247.com/[/QUOTE]

Thank you. Looking at the manual, it seems unlikely to be the thermistor, as the problem affects both CH and DHW and there's a separate thermistor for each in the boiler. I will put the PCB thing to the engineer, however.
 
just out of interest is there a little black plastic nub on the top right hand side of the boiler?
 

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