Hanging mirror

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Morning guys, wife wants a mirror put up. Its brick, not breeze block I think.
The mirror weighs 8.6 kg & dimensions are 65 cm X 90 cm. She wants it as flush to wall as possible. Previously it was hung with string which tilted it slightly. How can I fix so there is no lean on mirror. Cheers for any replies
 
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Morning guys, wife wants a mirror put up. Its brick, not breeze block I think.
The mirror weighs 8.6 kg & dimensions are 65 cm X 90 cm. She wants it as flush to wall as possible. Previously it was hung with string which tilted it slightly. How can I fix so there is no lean on mirror. Cheers for any replies

You could borrow a router and use a key hole cutter to create slots in the back of the frame which will accommodate the heads of the screws that stick out of the wall.

https://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-keyhole-cutters-ax803493

Alternatively you could glue it to the wall but you will need to cut away any paper and the mirror will need to be supported with batons until the glue sets. The major downside is that you will have to break the mirror if you want to remove it.

There are a number of mirror hangers here but they may well still leave a slight tilt.
 
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You could borrow a router and use a key hole cutter to create slots in the back of the frame which will accommodate the heads of the screws that stick out of the wall.

https://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-keyhole-cutters-ax803493

Alternatively you could glue it to the wall but you will need to cut away any paper and the mirror will need to be supported with batons until the glue sets. The major downside is that you will have to break the mirror if you want to remove it.

There are a number of mirror hangers here but they may well still leave a slight tilt.

Looks like it might be having a bit of a lean on it then.
 
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Has a wooden frame.

Then you can fix it with mirror hanging plates or keyhole plates.

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You put a screw in the wall with the head slightly projecting. The plate goes over the head at the round hole, then gravity takes it down so the shank is in the slot, and the head holds it tight.

If the back of the frame is recessed behind the edge, or if you let the plate into the wood with a chisel or router, you can have the mirror tight to the wall. If not, it will project by the thickness of the plate and the screwhead.

You CAN use four plates, one at each corner, but it is easier to lift off if you just have two on the top rail. If the screws are a loose fit in the plates it will be easier to lift up and off in future. You can trial-fit it with the screw-heads projecting well, then slowly screw them in incrementally, the further they are screwed in, the tighter the mirror will hold to the wall and the more difficult it will be to remove.

You could also use French Cleats.
 
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Looks like it might be having a bit of a lean on it then.

I assume that you are going for one of the hangers, If you put them an inch or two down from the top of the mirror, you will decrease the extent of tilt.

For even less tilt you can try interlocking mirror fixings. You will need two pairs. You can find them for less online. You measuring will need to be pretty accurate but if you are slightly out you can readjust the positioning on the back of the mirror. If the wall is bowing you will need to pack out the fixings, but hey, if the wall bows, the mirror will never be flush. You may need a second person to help you hang the mirror. Some interlocking fixings can be really tight.
 
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Wife is happy (temporarily). Thanks for your help people.
 

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Congrats.

Which type of fitting did you go for in the end.
 
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