heating pipes in wall

[UnionJack]

Hi

Im having my hallway skimmed but have a problem with heating pipes that are buried in an internal wall.

The wall is 4 inch thick and made of block and looks to be load bearing, currently the pipes are buried about 2 inches into the wall and are surrounded by concrete and are not wrapped in denzo etc.

I would like the pipes to remain hidden but cant see an alternative way of achieving this (laminate flooring, no cupboards nearby etc). The problem is that the current plaster that is on the wall in the vicinity of the pipes has blown which Im assuming is down to the heat from the pipes. If i just hack out this plaster and redo it, then skim it im assuming the same thing is going to happen again.

I know denzo is used to protect the pipes from the plaster but would it also stop enough of the heat from being transferred from the pipes to the plaster toprevent it blowing/cracking?

I was thinking about sleeving the pipes but am very wary of going any deeper than they have already.

Thanks for any help

 

[weareleeds]

Why not replace pipes with barrier plastic

 

[UnionJack]

thanks for the reply,

forgot to mention the landing has laminate flooring aswell, and thats where the pipes tee off for the rad in the hallway, I could convert at the top of the wall but the joint would be hidden which im not keen on, but it may be the only option

 

[UnionJack]

your post has given me an idea now, I could use plastic coated copper piping and solder the joint, anyone know if that would give enough protection against the heat?

 

[ChrisR]

Standard cheap pipe insulation is 9mm thick.
SLit it lengthwise and cover the front of the pipes . Pin it in place (hot melt glue gun is handy for that) and plaster over.
Fix it to the wall and not the pipes, which will move.

If there's no room for that, just get some thin foam packing type material, or the stuff they use under cheap laminate flooring. Or buy a big pizza from a supermarket and slice up the polystyrene base...

 

[Onetap]

I was thinking about sleeving the pipes but am very wary of going any deeper than they have already.

http://www.screwfix.com

15mm pipe conduit, item no. 72840.

15mm plastic tube goes inside the conduit, the conduit is plastered into the wall chase. The pipe can be withdrawn from the sleeve if required. The conduit is about 25mm diameter. The link is to JG stuff, but most manufacturers do something similar. Sorted.

The plaster has probably blown because the existing pipe is leaking.
You don't need to insulate it since it's an internal wall and heat going into the wall will eventually make it's way into the occupied space.

Denso tape used to be used for this, but plastic pipe is easier.

Check the information about rodent attack on the manufacturers' web-sites.

 

[ChrisR]

The reason for insulation is to prevent the full temperature variation of the pipe reaching the plaster, which is inclined to crack as a result.

Movement is also an issue, be aware that plastic pipes move far more than metal ones.

I've never had a problem with the method I explained. There's no point replacing the pipe with plastic.

 

[Onetap]

The reason for insulation is to prevent the full temperature variation of the pipe reaching the plaster, which is inclined to crack as a result.

Movement is also an issue, be aware that plastic pipes move far more than metal ones.

I've never had a problem with the method I explained. There's no point replacing the pipe with plastic.

The conduit is a corrugated type tube in which the air gap provides some insulation. It also provides a grip for the plaster. The pipe moves in the conduit, but it moves freely.

I'd suggest you try the conduit stuff, it's much easier.

 

[UnionJack]

thanks for the replies

both given me some ideas there, dont think id replace the copper with plastic though due to having a plastic fitting in the wall where i convert from copper(cant get under floorboards in landing).
I might stick with copper and sleeve this in plastic
ChrisRs option would be alot cheaper and quicker though, so ill try that first and run the heating before I plaster over to see what its like.

Thanks again for all the help