Heatline S24 Compact Combi - Blowing Fuses

[firebladerrw]

Hi quite new to this so would appreciate some help if poss:

I have a Heatline C24, that first of all blew the fused spur beside the boiler. When I changed the fuse, the diverter valve actuator seemed to be clicking, so I took it off, cleaned it it and stuck it back on. There was a wee bit of water between the black plastic actuator, and the main body.

The clicking seemed to go away, but the boiler wouldn't flash up on either on the heating or DHW cycle.

Reset everything then the boiler started to flash up, then the fuses popped on the PCB after about 5 seconds.

Something is obviously causing the fuses to pop, but I'm a bit lost.

Could anyone advise? or Advise what to check?

Thanks

 

[assured heating]

You'vesussed it yourself there should not be any water comeing out of the divertor , it gets into the actuator and blows the fuse either new divertor or a new repair kit if they do one
These boilers are pieces of CaRp

 

[firebladerrw]

Many thanks kinda thought that! I,l get a repair kit tomorrow and update if it works.

Ta

 

[Agile]

These boilers are very good!

But its the cheapscate people who buy them because they are cheap and then get them installed without cleaning the system.

You can disconnect the diverter motor and replace the blown fuses and use your boiler in the meantime and pushing the pin as required.

Tony

 

[firebladerrw]

These boilers are very good!

But its the cheapscate people who buy them because they are cheap and then get them installed without cleaning the system.

You can disconnect the diverter motor and replace the blown fuses and use your boiler in the meantime and pushing the pin as required.

Tony

Sound advice thanks - Unfortunately I cant get fuses until tomorrow (Monday), I'll pick up a diverter valve repair kit at the same time.

I've heard mixed views on these boilers, but I'm no expert and cant really comment. This boiler is in a rented flat, and its been running fine for approximately 6 years - it does get serviced every year mind.

Any tips on doing the diverter valve (called the 3 way valve in the service book) ? And just to be 100% clear its 18 on this diagram? and to test if it is this, just disconnect the connector and run it?

Thanks to all again

 

[firebladerrw]

Today's update and request for advice:

I've fitted a new diverter valve kit, the leaking has stopped, and everything is bone dry, BUT the fuses on the PCB are still blowing?

I've checked all the wiring and everything looks fine, so I'm struggling a wee bit now !

I'm going to check the fan & motor isn't seized up, and after that I'm at a loss, other than to dig into my pocket & try a new PCB - which isn't cheap !

Does anyone have any advice or anything else I could try?

 

[firebladerrw]

Unashamed bump for desperate help !

 

[gnigdave]

did you manage to fix this problem?

after trawling the forums/www i seem to be in the same boat.

- DHW working fine.
- CH instantly blowing f1/f2 fuses. No time for any fault LEDS to light up.
- External drayton wireless thermosat not in use (battery connection has snapped in transmitter). Tempted to remove this all together but realise it is more economical to fix it (silver foil).
- Have just discovered a drip of water on the bottom of the casing for the 3-way/diverter valve actuator.

I'm new to this and appreciate any advice given.

Water and actuator = bad.

I guess this is not a case of 'drying it out'? must mean i need new parts?

I've read about the diverter value jamming or needing moving manually. Is this something that could fix this problem long term?

I have a multimeter but have never used it. I initially thought that the replacement f1/f2 fuses had done the job (until the CH tried to kick in).

Luckily it's abnormally hot for this time of year so we are ok with just the DHW for the time being.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

 

[Beerlover]

Classic death fault on this boiler. Water leak from the diverter valve, diverter motor gets wet and can take out the pcb (bot just the fuses).

Two ways to fix it though; check your local B&Q they were selling these off for £100 - £150. or instant cover from Group Service around £290 including 12 months cover.

Diverter valve £180 (service kit available though)
Diverter motor £100
PCB £210 (you may be lucky and it's only fuses)

Add to this the visits & labour from your RGI

As once was said " come on down, the choice is yours"

 

[gnigdave]

View media item 33922
Hi. Finally managed to get back to this. We have hot water but switching on the central heating causes the pcb f1/f2 quick blow fuses to pop.

Removed the Diverter Valve Motor. Water evident. See the corrosion on the connector lead.
http://www.akgas.co.uk/Heatline-Div...rter-Valve-Service-Kit-CompactVizo-D1011.html
Would this £19.95 kit fix the leak by just replacing the black rubber nut (left hand side) in the background of this photo?
there is also a £43.03 kit......
http://www.akgas.co.uk/Heatline-Div...Valve-Service-Kit-CompactVizo-3003202082.html

View media item 33923Inside the Divertor Valve Motor there is also a fair bit of corrosion.
I've not quite figured out how to test this motor using my multimeter. I've been getting sporadic increasing readings when checking the resistance but i've heard that i should be getting 2000 ohms if the motor as okay(?). Could a clean up of the corroded connectors help?

I was hoping for some advice before buying any parts. (cable, motor, rubber washer... £80 approx).

also... (not sure if this is worth doing).... Is there a way of manually adjusting the Diverter Valve to the central heating position (by turning the inside of the motor) to see if the central heating will work without blowing the pcb fuses?

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

 

[Agile]

You need to replace the black gland in he diverter valve and replace the motor.

In the meantime you can disconnect the motor connections and still use the boiler.

Tony

 

[gnigdave]

thanks again.........

so i replaced the black nut (gland?), diverter motor and cable.... some kind of success but I'm not sure if I've made any progress beyond doing none of the above and just disconnecting the old faulty motor.

In the fortnight since changing the parts there has been no leak.
The f1/f2 fuses do not blow.
We have heating again....
but
the radiators are heating up if a hot water tap is run for a prolonged period of time. It's not the worst thing in the world as we have an electric shower, but still there's a problem somewhere.

From the million other posts of here I guess it the diverter valve.

The (spring loaded?) pin can be pushed in on the valve behind where the motor sits. The motor itself if clicking and whirring when switching between the DHW/CH so I assume that's ok.

What actually breaks inside the valve?

Is there anything from the kit I've bought that could help?

http://www.akgas.co.uk/Heatline-Div...ct-Vizo-Diverter-Valve-Service-Kit-D1011.html

Thanks in advance
Dave

 

[Agile]

Nothing breaks but dirt stops it sealing properly!

As I said early on these cheap boilers are installed cheaply and so not cleaned.

Otherwise very good boilers!

Tony Glazier

 

[gingapete]

I been having a similar-ish problems where my HW runs hot then cold then hot then cold, CH not a problem.

Was advised to change the thermisters (screw in one and clip on one) did this and still HW not working properly.

Noticed leak on diverter valve so ordered replacement. Fitted this afternoon but it didn't seem to fit quite the same as the old on, so i opened them both up and swapped over the back as i noticed the o ring had preished on the old and all seemed fine.

Came back in tonight and HW still the same (hot/cold) but now the CH wont come on? I have checked it all and it all seems fine, fuses ok, no leaks, pressure fine, new fan fitted over two months ago still works fine. Not sure what has gone on there!

Although i cant hear anything coming from the diverter motor when HW or CH is on, so looks like i need to re-check the motor again!!

 

[Agile]

Your plate heat exchanger sounds blocked as well.

All these problems because the boiler was fitted without cleaning the system.

Tony