I recently purchased a Heatmiser PRT thermostat to replace a 20-odd year old mechanical room stat (4 wires: earth, neutral, live, call) at my sister's place. I followed the instructions to the letter (and checked this forum!), but with the earth wire isolated in a terminal block and live, 'call' and neutral connected the display remained blank when I restored power. I then added a bridging wire between live and 'A2', but still nothing. I confirmed that live and call both output 230v when the timeclock activates.
Refusing to put the old 'stat back, I stubbornly went out and bought a basic Drayton RTS8 as a stop-gap. Hey-presto, it worked straightaway.
I emailed Heatmiser support for help with the PRT, and their response was to suggest that the neutral wire at the room stat is not connected to the neutral for the timeclock in the kitchen (a Drayton LP522), hence the circuit at the thermostat end is not made
Surely this would stop the RTS8 from operating the boiler too? When it warms up a bit I will double-check the terminals of the LP522, but this sounds a bit dodgy! Can anyone give some advice?
Thanks,
James.
Refusing to put the old 'stat back, I stubbornly went out and bought a basic Drayton RTS8 as a stop-gap. Hey-presto, it worked straightaway.
I emailed Heatmiser support for help with the PRT, and their response was to suggest that the neutral wire at the room stat is not connected to the neutral for the timeclock in the kitchen (a Drayton LP522), hence the circuit at the thermostat end is not made
Surely this would stop the RTS8 from operating the boiler too? When it warms up a bit I will double-check the terminals of the LP522, but this sounds a bit dodgy! Can anyone give some advice? Thanks,
James.
