Help Diagnosing Likely Problem - Electrics and Boiler

If I suspected it was the pump then I would have powered it from a fly lead and a 13 A socket!

Then the OP could have the full CH and HW system while it is on test.

Tony
 
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If I suspected it was the pump then I would have powered it from a fly lead and a 13 A socket!

Then the OP could have the full CH and HW system while it is on test.

Tony
so if you suspected that it was the pump and it turned out to be the pump , what would circulate the water around the system , that would give them CH and HW while you had it was on test ??? your oscilloscope maybe ?? another post to be deleted
 
If I suspected it was the pump then I would have powered it from a fly lead and a 13 A socket!

Then the OP could have the full CH and HW system while it is on test.

Tony
If the circulator was fooked then what would be the point of a fly lead???
 
Seriously, this fault just needs a neon screwdriver. I would not need to call a friend to fix it

Tony do you charge a consultation fee to the people that call you for experts advice?
 
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Fixitfergie, replace the 3 amp fuse in the spur
Make sure both CH and HW are off at the programmer. Also wind the boiler thermostat to 0/ off position
Power up the programmer
Select HW only. Wait a few minutes. Now set boiler thermostat to say mid position. Wait a few minutes. Boiler should fire. If fuse not popped, let it run for say 10 minutes. If fuse popped, you will have a point in the sequence where the fault may be present

Now select CH and follow the same sequence and pin point when the fuse popped.

Thus far no tools or instruments have been used, not even a neon screwdriver other than removal of three amp fuse perhaps.

Report back and will guide you further
 
so do you expect the engineer to charge just for 10 mins then ????

Have to agree with you Agas
Equally the plumber is struggling here, so wonder what his full charge might be. You think the plumber should call tony and seek guidance there? :ROFLMAO:
 
It is not a good idea to fault find by trial and error, each time a fuse 'pops' it means a high current has being drawn through the programmer / thermostat etc, The more it is done, the more likelihood there is of causing more damage to other components. It's not too difficult to weld the contacts in thermostats and programmers together by putting short circuit currents through them.

If the pump is the suspect, then leaving it out of the circuit to prevent the fuse blowing sounds reasonable, however, a pump is a fairly simple electrical device and it should be quite easy for a competent person to test.
 
It is not a good idea to fault find by trial and error, each time a fuse 'pops' it means a high current has being drawn through the programmer / thermostat etc,

Well said, popping fuses is NEVER a sensible diagnostic procedure
 
Have you read the whole thread dp ?


I have done so for the second time.
What am I missing
Did see your response re pump, would have arrived at same conclusion with baby steps I posted
What do you think
 

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