Help fitting closed coupled toilet

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Hi all, i am about to tackle the bathroom and i have a big old Doulton toilet that i would like to replacewith a modern closed coupled toilet...

So my question as being keen to DIY, but not an expert by any means, does anyone forsee any problems doing the job myself.....

I've attached pictures below for you all to look at..

Thanks in advance for any advice

View media item 5349 View media item 5351 View media item 5353
 
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cress - the only issue is the distance from the socket in the floor to the wall. Choose a cc pan & cistern that'll fit this dimension; you may have to use a swan neck pan connector or similar. Otherwise go for it. PS. fit an isolation valve on the cold feed to the cistern. You could of course keep the old tackle and swap the white plakka flush pipe for a nice chrome one, also if you're keeping the water pipe on the surface swap it for a lengthof chrome (supported on a couple of chrome pipe brackets - variously known as hospital or Munsen, or ring brackets).

I like the guaranteed efficiency of these big old cisterns, they never seem to leave behind an unflushed bog monster, unlike the modern, namby-pamby duel flush, save the planet's water supply, low volume tackle :LOL:
 
yeah but you have to admit those old WC pans are `bog' ugly :LOL:

If cress is intending using a close-coupled pan he won't want a flush pipe. The overflow and cold feed will come up from underneath so you will need to drill through the wall to outside for a new overflow pipe as it will be lower than the old one.

As symptoms says you will need to check the specifications to make sure your WC pans trap lines up with the SVP collar as that is a fixed point with `S' traps.

I would advise connecting the cistern to the pan before installing as you can get a better seal on the coupling joint. Don't pull the cistern about too much when fixing to the wall or you'll end up taking it all out again when it leaks between the pan and cistern.

Have you considered installing a hidden cistern and hanging the pan off brackets on the wall ? Looks very cool and you can't see any connection
 
I doubt you will get a CC pan in there without moving the branch to the stack back to the wall, almost to the skirting board. Also modern cisterns have an internal overflow so no need to drill one to an outside wall.
 
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I doubt you will get a CC pan in there without moving the branch to the stack back to the wall, almost to the skirting board. Also modern cisterns have an internal overflow so no need to drill one to an outside wall.
Absolutely right.

Option might be to cut/seal off the old socket, go horizontally through the wall and connect to the stack outside, wherever it it.
 
would it be easier to fit a new low level toilet?

all i wana do is replace the cream lookin toilet for a new one so the walls can be plastered, i was under the impression the closed coupled ones were the future.......

an how do i put a isolation valve on the cold water feed, because that would be ideal cuz there will be no toilet whilst the walls are plastered.....
 
What I have done many times is to make a box to make up the diference from the back of the cistern to the wall and cover it in white plastic or tile it, depending on your finished wall surface, doing this means that you can use the drain in the place it is.
 
The overflow and cold feed will come up from underneath

:confused: :confused: Overflow :confused:
Most are internal owerflows these days
they are if they empty into the pan and are visible
otherwise how you going to know that your cistern is overflowing all the time ??? especially when you have a water meter.
 
The overflow and cold feed will come up from underneath

:confused: :confused: Overflow :confused:
Most are internal owerflows these days
they are if they empty into the pan and are visible
otherwise how you going to know that your cistern is overflowing all the time ??? especially when you have a water meter.
If you don't understand how internal overflows work, weseeyou, then you really shouldn't be advising people on the subject.
 
kjharry - regarding your reply, what type of plastic do you use to cover the box? any links etc would be really helpfull and I need to do exactly as you state! Would really need a tounge and groove effect for the plastic panels if possible to match another bit in the bathroom.

Cheers
 
It would look neatest to follow whatever finish you are giving to the walls. You mention plastering the walls, I would therefore make up your box out of 3x2 timber and then clad that in plasterboard. You can then get that plastered at the same time as the walls. Will look much smarter and professional. :D
 
Plastering a box attached to the wall? Is that some kind of joke? :confused:
 

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