HELP - wallpapering calculation too close - 2 rolls or 3?

[Rsian]

Hi,

Bit of a dilemma.

I am wallpapering one wall (see all measurements in picture).

Untitled

• Rsian
• 5 Dec 2012
• 1

From two rolls of paper I get 8 lengths, which is pretty much the exact amount I need, too exact maybe?

A few questions:

How difficult will it be to paper around the corner section with the inside having a 1cm difference from top to bottom?

I can't afford to lose any width so am looking to paper the whole corner section with the last few cm's finishing on the main wall, I assume it would be best to finish this in the corner and start a new length from the same corner, but then I would need to buy another roll - advice?

I have papered MANY years ago, just a couple of bedrooms as a teenager with decent results, but that paper was much thinner than the one I have got for this room which is quite thick - it's £44 a roll (another reason why I need to try and get away with two rolls). Will this paper be easier or harder to hang?

Can't afford to pay someone a day rate just to paper one wall, so am having to do it myself, so unless someone knows of anyone in the Berkshire area to do this (on a 'non-day rate'), I am after as much advice as possible.

Thanks all.

 

[Lower]

Does the paper have a pattern?

You could always by the extra roll as a backup and then take it back if you don't use it.

 

[opps]

i know it sounds silly but have you double checked the roll dimensions? I hung paper last month (£75 per rol) and the supplier told me it was 53cm wide, when it turned up it was 70cm.

The cost of the paper has little bearing on the ease of use. The previous paper that I hung was £140 per roll- sea grass, a b!tch to work with...

I work on the assumption that I will need 10% extra, in your case an extra roll. it is useful to have if ever you have problems further down the line given that paper has short production lifespans. I understand that you don't want to pay any more than necessary but if you run out you cant guarantee that your next roll will have the same batch number.

I do not paper around corners, by which I mean I allow and inch or so to go around and then the next piece on the perpendicular wall is hung so as to match the pattern of the previous one, I then trim the edge of that into the corner.

If the walls were perfectly square and flat it would be ok to run paper around corners but in the real world they ain't...

 

[Rsian]

Thanks for the repsonses, yes it has a pattern, and I will buy the extra roll just to be on the safe side.

I do not paper around corners, by which I mean I allow and inch or so to go around and then the next piece on the perpendicular wall is hung so as to match the pattern of the previous one, I then trim the edge of that into the corner.

If the walls were perfectly square and flat it would be ok to run paper around corners but in the real world they ain't...

Can you clarify this for me? If it is trimmed into a corner, how do you get the pattern to match for the main back wall?

I'm concerned that the difference in the inside wall width going from 26cm upto 27.5cm is going to cause the top area of paper to slightly drop as it goes in from the centre of the wall, or the bottom will also drop as it goes out, this will in turn make matching this edge difficult for the back wall.
How would get around this?

 

[opps]

Thanks for the repsonses, yes it has a pattern, and I will buy the extra roll just to be on the safe side.

I do not paper around corners, by which I mean I allow and inch or so to go around and then the next piece on the perpendicular wall is hung so as to match the pattern of the previous one, I then trim the edge of that into the corner.

If the walls were perfectly square and flat it would be ok to run paper around corners but in the real world they ain't...

Can you clarify this for me? If it is trimmed into a corner, how do you get the pattern to match for the main back wall?

I'm concerned that the difference in the inside wall width going from 26cm upto 27.5cm is going to cause the top area of paper to slightly drop as it goes in from the centre of the wall, or the bottom will also drop as it goes out, this will in turn make matching this edge difficult for the back wall.
How would get around this?

Here is a link that shows what I was trying to suggest, it is the first link I came across but it has pictures

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-wallpaper-corners.html

The exact technique will depend on the pattern/paper, do you have any links or images?

 

[Bosswhite]

Thanks for the repsonses, yes it has a pattern, and I will buy the extra roll just to be on the safe side.

I do not paper around corners, by which I mean I allow and inch or so to go around and then the next piece on the perpendicular wall is hung so as to match the pattern of the previous one, I then trim the edge of that into the corner.

If the walls were perfectly square and flat it would be ok to run paper around corners but in the real world they ain't...

Can you clarify this for me? If it is trimmed into a corner, how do you get the pattern to match for the main back wall?

I'm concerned that the difference in the inside wall width going from 26cm upto 27.5cm is going to cause the top area of paper to slightly drop as it goes in from the centre of the wall, or the bottom will also drop as it goes out, this will in turn make matching this edge difficult for the back wall.
How would get around this?

Here is a link that shows what I was trying to suggest, it is the first link I came across but it has pictures

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-wallpaper-corners.html

The exact technique will depend on the pattern/paper, do you have any links or images?

I would try and do the join on the inside of the corner not the outside as shown on the right hand picture picture. Then lose the difference in pattern match into the interior corner as the left picture

 

[wrathkeg]

i hung wallpaper at the weekend, and found this video extremely helpful. some coverage of papering corners, and other tricky things.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=co_2WuuYBVA

 

[Rsian]

Thanks all.

Untitled

• Rsian
• 6 Dec 2012
• 1

Firstly, do I assume that both of those techniques involves cutting the paper lengthways by a couple of inches so as to get the pattern edge to match when overlapping?

Not sure how easy that would be without the proper tools 9decent straight edge, 'overlapping adhesive'...etc...?

Inside technique is possible, but I have a concern about the outside technique - the paper is quite thick and the colour red is fairly dark, and the back of the paper is light cream in colour. This cream colour is visible along the edge of the paper, and I think would show up when laid on top of a dark background.

Could I just go around the outside corner? The inside wall of the outside corner is not uniform in width (1.5cm difference from top to bottom), and the actual edge is pretty rough, how best to overcome these two points?

Lastly, is a mis-coat and two full coats of paint good enough of a seal for papering on fresh plaster?

 

[wrathkeg]

someone with more experience with me will probably post --- but in the meantime, a problem going around the corner and then matching it up with the next piece (without overlap) is that the corner will almost certainly not be square. so the bit that goes around the corner will not be vertical once round the corner, and may (like in my case) have some as a result. This makes matching the pattern perfectly very tricky. And the more of the paper you take round the external corner, the more difficult it is likely to be. I have read on here posts that mention overlapping the pieces, then cutting through both with a knife. You would end up with edges butted up against one another, but the pattern still wouldn't be a perfect match if the corner of the wall is not square. And if you are anything like me, you'll rip the wallpaper --- cutting wet wallpaper without the blade snagging is much harder than you might think.

 

[opps]

cutting wet wallpaper without the blade snagging is much harder than you might think.

A decent blade will help, eg OLFA, japanese quality and super thin/sharp

http://www.decoratingtradesupplies.co.uk/shop/product/olfa-xa1-x-design-auto-lock-snap-knife-9mm

Also hold the paper down with a wide filling knife and cut along the stright edge, eg http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000O50MAE/?tag=hydra0b-21&hvadid=9550950549&ref=asc_df_B000O50MAE

Holding the paper down reduces the risk of snagging

 

[wrathkeg]

A decent blade will help, eg OLFA, japanese quality and super thin/sharp

http://www.decoratingtradesupplies.co.uk/shop/product/olfa-xa1-x-design-auto-lock-snap-knife-9mm

i wish I had known this before ripping the paper to shreds with a snap-off stanley blade but a good tip for the future.