Help wiring my honeywell roomstat
- Thread starter spoony77
- Start date
Take your pick, it doesn't matter.
PS You should have tagged this into you earlier post on the subject. Would have saved me looking back to see what you originally asked.
It will be OK if it is designed for UK mains voltage.
You will find some spare terminals on the right of the CM radio receiver if it is a HC60 series, if you look closely there are more terminals than pins to the facia......
If you have the newer square receiver, terminate the spares on a small strip connector (choc strip) inside the casing.
It generally better practice to terminate unused conductors in this fashion at the boiler and stat end, rather than chop them.
People who just leave cut ends should be working for BT or Network Rail.
You will find some spare terminals on the right of the CM radio receiver if it is a HC60 series, if you look closely there are more terminals than pins to the facia......
If you have the newer square receiver, terminate the spares on a small strip connector (choc strip) inside the casing.
It generally better practice to terminate unused conductors in this fashion at the boiler and stat end, rather than chop them.
People who just leave cut ends should be working for BT or Network Rail.
Yep, you've get the new model base receiver! Just need some small connectors inside. Make sure you push the outer sheath within the box.
Good practice also dictates you should label the conductors you are using with blue or brown tape or sleeving (eg: neutral blue, all others, brown). Just makes the job look totally pro, which I always aspire to in my own work.
PS: if it is easier you can cut the plastic separator between the LLN and switch sections, this is only needed when you are using the switch contacts on a separated system eg; volt free.
Good practice also dictates you should label the conductors you are using with blue or brown tape or sleeving (eg: neutral blue, all others, brown). Just makes the job look totally pro, which I always aspire to in my own work.
PS: if it is easier you can cut the plastic separator between the LLN and switch sections, this is only needed when you are using the switch contacts on a separated system eg; volt free.
Is it important to push the outer sheathing into the block even if your using conduit?
Because its a single cable and the instructions recommend 2 cables there is a plastic divider stopping it going all the way in?
I suppose i could snap this off?
edit - i think this is what you meant in the above post
Because its a single cable and the instructions recommend 2 cables there is a plastic divider stopping it going all the way in?
I suppose i could snap this off?
edit - i think this is what you meant in the above post
No it's OK. The volt free terminals are A and B. L and N terminals just supply power to run the electronics in the receiver. Do NOT connect L to either A or B.
Ok im half way there got the receiver wired in and on the wall just got the daunting bit now taking my boiler apart (inserts scared smiley)
Can anyone tell me what i set my boiler switch to once this is all done - On,Automatic or off?
Automatic was the setting for letting the in built clock do its thing but as im disconnecting the power to this im not sure this still applies?
Can anyone tell me what i set my boiler switch to once this is all done - On,Automatic or off?
Automatic was the setting for letting the in built clock do its thing but as im disconnecting the power to this im not sure this still applies?
The clock does not do anything, so it does not matter what the clock switch is set to.
you should ask admin to merge this thread with the one you posted last week.
if you follow the detailed step by step i posted last week
you would be done by now.
an installer familiar with Vokera`s 1/2 an hour!!
if you follow the detailed step by step i posted last week
you would be done by now.
an installer familiar with Vokera`s 1/2 an hour!!
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