Hidden shelf supports?

[kaseryn]

Hi.. does anyone know where i can get something like the fixing Ikea use on the Billy shelving systems? With them its just a steel pin with a flange in the middle for depth stop, the shelf sits in top with a rebate the shape of the pin for a nice flush finish, and of course being underneath.. max strength. I'll be putting a large mdf/veneer shelf in a recess in a room and fancy the same trick. Does anyone know where you could buy something like that that can be affixed to the walls on either side? Failing that, some attractive rails in a metallic finish...

 

[Jasonb]

Not sure what the ikea one is like but these are OK

Jason

 

[kaseryn]

Thanks, but my shelf is 50mm+ so those'd be too small. How about some nice simple rails go underneath?

 

[Scrit]

That 24mm is the minimum thickness. Jason's items look like the Hafele units and from memory they require a 10mm diameter hole about 100mm deep and are more than adequate for 50mm thick shelves (used them for that myself). Jason's done quite a few of these shelves so I reckon his advice is good

Scrit

 

[Jasonb]

Thanks Scrit, Yes I think they are the same as Hafale but SLH are easier for non trades to order from, and linking to hafale is a pain

Actually I tend to epoxy metal rods but the brackets are easier for a DIYer as they allow for height adjustment if the rods are not fixed level and only need a small masonary bit for screw holes. They are fine for 50mm thick shelves, they same company that I linked to tend to sell 38mm shelves.

Have a look at this pic and the next two for how I do it.

 

[kaseryn]

I see thanks. Is that right though.. nearly £10 per single pin before tax? I need four points of support so that would be a bit expensive really. I like the epoxy idea, where do you get the rods for that, and what size bits do you match to what rod thickness? Unlike your shelves mine is in an alcove and i would have the pins two to either side. I'm wondering now if i'll be able to cleanly make that rebate i'd need to just drop it onto the pins. It's veneered MDF and i guess using the circular saw will chew it up.. the depth needs to be uniform doesn't it. A routing job but i didn't get one yet.

 

[Jasonb]

If you also have end support you don't need to go to the trouble of rods.

Use a router to cut a groove say 12mmx12mm at mid height along the back and sides of the shelf, stopping just short of the front edge . Cut some batten to 12x12 and screw to the wall, add a little glue to the grove and just slip the shelf into place. Thats how these and these are done.

If you go for rods then its easier to buy studding either in 300mm or 1.0m lengths. 10mm stud into 12mm hole in wall will do. Screwfix sell studding & epoxy.

Jason

 

[kaseryn]

I have no router but am getting a bit too regularly stuck with jobs where it'd be perfect so i think i'll shelve (omg, sides splitting) this project for the moment and get one in a few weeks. From your experience, is it worth also getting a routing table? Or, are there tables that will be useful with a router but also with other work/tools? Thanks for all the advise!

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Why cant you just fix say a 25mm batten to the walls on both sides and the back and then rout a matching groove in the back and sides of your shelves?

 

[Scrit]

Why cant you just fix say a 25mm batten to the walls on both sides and the back and then rout a matching groove in the back and sides of your shelves?

I'd go for the rear mounting option - my alcoves (Victorian house) are anything but square and scribing a 40 to 50mm thick shelf round 3 sides sounds like a royal PIA. And what if the alcove is wider at the back than the front?

Scrit

 

[kaseryn]

I know exactly what you mean! I've done quite a bit around the flat and all the walls and corners are miles off. Fortunately i kept the sandwich board shelf that i'm replacing to scribe from. I need to go for the side support really as the thing will also be 600mm deep.