During the cold spell, when the heating was on, i realised that I did not need to turn on the hot water - very bizarre. The hot water always seems too hot aswell. I have had thermostat on tank changed and turned it down but its made no difference. The house is a new build and we know the plumbers were thrown off site for being rubbish (no offence). Now I am worried that there is basic mistakes with my hot water system.. the boiler is a potterton promax he. Please help as Im getting worried about the kids scalding themselves. Thanks
hot water too hot
- Thread starter pamzer
- Start date
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herebriefly
Without any system details, its difficult to say but do you have immersion heater switched on possibly. 
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Its probaly the 3 port valve stuck in the open position.
When the water in the tank gets up to temp it sends a message to close the 3 port valve to heating only, if its stuck open this wont happen and your hot water will continue to cook....
When the water in the tank gets up to temp it sends a message to close the 3 port valve to heating only, if its stuck open this wont happen and your hot water will continue to cook....
Hmmm, just noticed its a new build...
You have a hot water cylinder?
If yes then its the 3 port valve....
You have a hot water cylinder?
If yes then its the 3 port valve....
Thanks for replies. Its a condensing boiler. Is the 3 port valve the big green round metal thing (brand name milo gold 60 written on it?) in my airing cupboard near to the tank??? I notice it has a dial next to it with 1-3 on it. Does this have any significance?
While I'm on, the pipe that takes away the fluid from the boiler in my utility room is leaking. Should I be worried?? I've heard that Potterton boilers are a nightmare
While I'm on, the pipe that takes away the fluid from the boiler in my utility room is leaking. Should I be worried?? I've heard that Potterton boilers are a nightmare
That's the pump. It's Wilo, by the way, not Milo!
A three port valve looks like this:
View media item 5946
Rubbish!wingcoax said:
A new boiler has to be condensing, it does not have to be a combi.
Sorry, the pump is upside down in the airing cupboard - hence milo!
Can't see a 3 port valve. only have 3 actuator valves. There is a black box attached to the pump with a dial with one to three on it, but doesn't look like your picture. Where should the 3 port valve be? Give us a clue.
Can't see a 3 port valve. only have 3 actuator valves. There is a black box attached to the pump with a dial with one to three on it, but doesn't look like your picture. Where should the 3 port valve be? Give us a clue.
you say you have 3 actuator valves. this looks as if your heating is divided into 2 zones each controlled by a 2 port valve with the other controlling the hot water. By switching heating on and off at the programmer and watching what happens to the levers on the valve you will be able to identify the Hot water valve. switch on and off the hot water at the programer and see if the lever moves as it should.
Just switched the water on and nothing has happened on the valve - no movement. the pipe from the valve to the tank is red hot aswell. I had this actuator replaced last year, could it have gone again?? The valve bit on top feels stiff, there is a little movement in the central heating ones.
Could be the actuator but it might be the tank thermostat or the programmer. or the wiring.
If the heating valves are working OK ie lever moving when you switch heat on and off you could try switching the heads assuming they are the same model, have detachable actuators and are close enough that the leads reach.
That will at least tell you if it is the actuator head that is the problem. You could try turning the spindle when the head is off to check that the ball inside is not jammed in the open position.
If the heating valves are working OK ie lever moving when you switch heat on and off you could try switching the heads assuming they are the same model, have detachable actuators and are close enough that the leads reach.
That will at least tell you if it is the actuator head that is the problem. You could try turning the spindle when the head is off to check that the ball inside is not jammed in the open position.
RE my last suggestion about switching actuator heads. This would only work if you changed over the wiriing in the wiring box as well and that may be a step too far for you.
However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck.
It goes without saying you should isolate the power before you remove the cover to an actuator head.
However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck.
It goes without saying you should isolate the power before you remove the cover to an actuator head.
RE my last suggestion about switching actuator heads. This would only work if you changed over the wiriing in the wiring box as well and that may be a step too far for you.
However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck.
It goes without saying you should isolate the power before you remove the cover to an actuator head.
However it would be worthwhile to remove the head and check that the spindle is turning and the ball is not stuck.
It goes without saying you should isolate the power before you remove the cover to an actuator head.
sorry to be a complete idiot, but I the actuator valve is working on the hot water - didn't see very well as I was running upstairs from utility room where boiler is. Any other possible causes to suggest before I get someone in. Thanks for your patience
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