Hotpoint Washing Machine - really noisy spin.

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Hi all, our washing machine is getting noisier and noisier during spin. I’m pretty sure it’s not a levelling issue. I looked underneath and the front bottom concrete (?) block has some gunge on it and there are what looks like flakes/dust from it on the floor on both sides. It’s belt driven, there are 2 springs holding the top which look ok, there are two shock absorbers connected to the bottom, not sure how tight they’re supposed to be but seem quite loose.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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Banging. It’s absolutely silent when empty, but an absolute racket with a load when spinning. I’m thinking bearings? It’s a sealed belt driven drum. Hotpoint.
 
How old is the machine?
How often do you use it?
What is your average wash load?
Do you have it serviced each year?

I was once asked to have a look at a mates washing machine because it was getting noisy. It was only 2 years old and out of warranty so shouldn't have been in the state it was in. After speaking with his wife, it turns out for the past 6 months or so, she had been bringing work overalls, canteen tea towels, and cleaning cloths home to wash EACH DAY, plus their own washing of 3 adults and two small children, because the machine in work was broken. Her machine was getting hammered each day to a commercial/industrial level.
 
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Try turning the empty drum, manually. Does it turn smoothly, quietly and very easily? If not, suspect the bearings have gone..
 
Harry, it turns relatively smooth and easily, and there is an intermittent noise, more like a hissing (but it’s not) than a scraping.
 
Ok chaps, assuhors is correct, the bottom weight is loose. It’s connected via 3 T40 torx bolts. I have a T40 bit and a (cheap) ratchet and can access the bolts but they won’t turn. There is some movement but it’s either stripping the head/bit or the ratchet, the bolts aren’t turning. If I could get the front off I could have at it with the impact driver but it looks like the whole unit is welded together?
 

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So I had to completely remove the drum to get to the bolts, finally got them off with the impact driver only to find the nylon lugs hav completely worn away. How and why I don’t know. Time for a new drum. Pics include a lug from the top weight for comparison.
YouTube on how to remove drum if anyone else needs it:
 

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You could try a good squirt of release oil, but they may be corroded to the fixed part by something called galvanic reaction, as opposed to 'standard' rust. This is where two 'incompatible' metals actually fuse together because of chemical reaction, (for want of a better phrase), rather than a moisture reaction. You may have to drill the head off the bolt to take the block off then, using a pair of mole grips or a Stilson wrench, try getting the bolt thread out and fitting replacements.
Had to go out for dinner after starting this reply, came home and finished it then saw your post. Well done.
 
UPDATE: Contacted Hotpoint to request a new drum under their free 10 year parts warranty, it turns out the parts are only free if one of their engineers comes out to fix it. At £137 I think that's a bit much, they won't send it out for me to fit. A new drum is also too expensive at around £150. I'm not going to spend 1/2 the price of a new machine to fix a 4 year old one. I'm going to have to come up with a novel solution using nylon spacers or buy a new machine. Any ideas?
 
If it comes to having to fit a new drum, look at alternative sellers, rather than Hotpoint. Ideally, you need to find a way to rapidly heat up the bolts, without damaging the plastic socket. Have you tried a pencil flame torch?
 
RESULT!! I bought some id 10.5mm x od 21mm x 15mm long nylon spacers from Vital Parts Ltd, enlarged the spacer id, reduced the lugs od and enlarged the weight holes id to suit with the Dremel, tightened the bolts with the impact driver and bob’s your uncle. Although the weight has developed a bit of a crack, hopefully it’ll be ok as it is steel reinforced.

10 points if you know where the weight is going?
 

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