I cannot believe there are so many other people having the same problem with there decking as me. I have been tring to remove my old decking stain for over a year now. I have used everything that has been mentioned with no luck. Yesterday i e-mailed a paint company regarding paint stripper, they e-mailed me back telling me to try a waterbased paint stripper. I have ordered this and should have it in a couple of days. will let everyone know if it works...Fingers crossed eh!
how best to remove Cuprinol rollable decking treatment?
- Thread starter Cuprinot
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Water based products outside are useless !!!!! On a deck it needs to be a decking oil to have any chance of lasting. The waterbased stains just sit on the surface and dont pentrate the wood. The wood will expand and contract but the satin cant and thus flakes off.
I tried pressure washing my decking last year - and noticed some splintering. I repainted with Cuprinol decking treatment - and this year the decking is in a worse state than ever before. It was suggested that a VERY long drying time is required after pressure washing- which I didn't allow.
I am very interested in the sanding - but it seems that you just left the grooves? Does anyone know of a "groovey" sander? Or mechanical wire brushes?
Thanks
I am very interested in the sanding - but it seems that you just left the grooves? Does anyone know of a "groovey" sander? Or mechanical wire brushes?
Thanks
excellent result - the sander certainly seems to have done the trick!
many thanks for posting the pictures
Sponsored Links
All. It appears to come off where you walk on it in frosty conditions or snow. Our decking is fine where we have not walked on it this winter but it looks shocking!
We are having the same problems, flaking and wear, but even though Cuprinol say that they still make the product it's not now stocked by either Homebase or B&Q in this area. Looks as though we may have to sand and oil too. What a rubbish product!
So, we've all learned that using Cuprinol decking stain is a disaster.
Clearly, sanding the boards can work as long as you are prepared to put in the hard yards and even then be left with an uneven finish.
I have a better solution....
A few days ago I bought a product to renovate my teak garden furniture which had seriously faded over three years of weathering and appeared to be completely unrecoverable as the 'silver patina' set in. I did some research and found that the furniture hadn't actually faded, but had turned silver due to a chemical reaction in the teak due to winter weather conditions.
The solution, as I read, was a two part acid treatment (Which sounds more harmful than it was), which both cleans and then renovates the teak, literally back to brand new condition.
But here's the good part....
The only space I had to do the job was on my decking (you know where this is going!), so as a bi-product of me cleaning the teak furniture, I noticed that the treatment was stripping the cuprinol off the decking with absolute ease, and without damaging the texture of the wood.
I called the company that supplied the treatment, Wessex Products (www.teakcleaner.co.uk), to ask if the product was recommended for decking and they told me to test a small area and to dilute by 20:1 and it should work.....it did, and now I have a beautiful new deck, now stained with high quality, oil based, Barratine wood preserver and the only thing required now is one coat a year to maintain.
Long winded I know, but I hope this post helps people deal with what is a crap product (cuprinol).
Good luck! javascript:emoticon('')
Clearly, sanding the boards can work as long as you are prepared to put in the hard yards and even then be left with an uneven finish.
I have a better solution....
A few days ago I bought a product to renovate my teak garden furniture which had seriously faded over three years of weathering and appeared to be completely unrecoverable as the 'silver patina' set in. I did some research and found that the furniture hadn't actually faded, but had turned silver due to a chemical reaction in the teak due to winter weather conditions.
The solution, as I read, was a two part acid treatment (Which sounds more harmful than it was), which both cleans and then renovates the teak, literally back to brand new condition.
But here's the good part....
The only space I had to do the job was on my decking (you know where this is going!), so as a bi-product of me cleaning the teak furniture, I noticed that the treatment was stripping the cuprinol off the decking with absolute ease, and without damaging the texture of the wood.
I called the company that supplied the treatment, Wessex Products (www.teakcleaner.co.uk), to ask if the product was recommended for decking and they told me to test a small area and to dilute by 20:1 and it should work.....it did, and now I have a beautiful new deck, now stained with high quality, oil based, Barratine wood preserver and the only thing required now is one coat a year to maintain.
Long winded I know, but I hope this post helps people deal with what is a crap product (cuprinol).
Good luck! javascript:emoticon('
')Hi, did you use this process and was it successful? Where did you get the Teak remover from?
Thanks
Hi guys. Just wanted to correct something... The 'Silver Patina' that Robama said had 'set in' to his garden furniture isn't caused by winter weather conditions but is a reaction to sunlight by the tannin in the wood. This is the natural wood preserver created by the wood itself.
I would hate to think that people thought of it as a problem or a disease getting into the wood as nothing could be further from the truth. Also, once furniture has achieved the silver patina, all the help it needs is a wash down each springtime with a stiff brush and some sugar soap. Furniture that has an even deep silvery shine to it is absolutely gorgeous.
I agree with everyone here. Cuprinol and similar wood stains are not fit for purpose. They don't last, look awful even when new and are very difficult to remove once applied.
I will definately look into Robama's recommendation of wessex products though. Sounds very promising.
Cheers.
I would hate to think that people thought of it as a problem or a disease getting into the wood as nothing could be further from the truth. Also, once furniture has achieved the silver patina, all the help it needs is a wash down each springtime with a stiff brush and some sugar soap. Furniture that has an even deep silvery shine to it is absolutely gorgeous.
I agree with everyone here. Cuprinol and similar wood stains are not fit for purpose. They don't last, look awful even when new and are very difficult to remove once applied.
I will definately look into Robama's recommendation of wessex products though. Sounds very promising.
Cheers.
I found all your issues and suggestions and they were a great help. Please to know I am not alone. Whilst getting ready for the arduous task of sanding I suddenly thought of a better idea. It may not be applicable to all as a solution but it works for me. I am now current flipping all the boards. No sanding same footprint and I can also get to the lights that needed replacing. Just a thought that may help some. Good luck .
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
