How do I fit new plastic WC Connector to ASBESTOS SOIL PIPE?

[kujina]

Hello I'm redoing my bathroom which has on asbestos cement soil pipe coming in through the wall. I cut (spraying with water) a lot of the pipe back, now I need to figure out how to connect new plastic fitting(s) to it, so I appreciate some advice.
The inner diameter is about 4 inches, see the images below.

Untitled

• kujina
• 19 Sep 2011
• 1

Untitled

• kujina
• 19 Sep 2011
• 1

Untitled

• kujina
• 19 Sep 2011
• 1

 

[Hufty]

Would suggest you move the frame a bit to the left when nobody's looking, then use a flexi pan connector?

 

[htgeng]

Would suggest you move the frame a bit to the left when nobody's looking, then use a flexi pan connector?

if he does that he probably won't even need an offset. It will go directly in

 

[kujina]

Would suggest you move the frame a bit to the left when nobody's looking, then use a flexi pan connector?

if he does that he probably won't even need an offset. It will go directly in

I dont want it so close the the left wall, 12mm tiles are still to go on yet, any ideas how to connect new plastic fittings to that asbestos soil pipe?

 

[seco services]

 

[kujina]

Will that be ok to just push straight into the asbestos soil pipe?

 

[Rampage]

Pond companies sell something called Eazy Connectors in 4" size which are designed to connect waste pipes and are flexible.

 

[Hufty]

Will that be ok to just push straight into the asbestos soil pipe?

Should be OK. Have just measured a McAlpine pan connector and the minor diameter of the fins is just under 4" (major diameter is 4 1/4") so it should bang in, with a bit of spit if it's a snug fit.

You might end up trimming the asbestos flush against the wall to give yourself more room for manoeuvre through the frame whatever pan connector you go for - all sorts of offset pan connectors are available as per Seco's posts.

A flexi pan connector is a good option to consider (if it will get past the frame) for any toilet where you can't get in to see the connection after the toilet is fitted, which is why I mentioned it. You can bring the pan forward a bit to verify there's no leaks (directly or with a dry roll of newspaper) without disturbing the seals then push it back afterwards. Also you don't have to worry about accurate measurement of how far back inside the wc pan the spigot is and what allowance to leave for overboarding and tiling on the frame.

I usually use a normal one eg a McAlpine WC-F23R, but have just seen the McAlpine WC-F21R wow its got jubilee clip technology!

On the subject of moving the frame along a bit, which I know you don't want to do, is the toilet pan less wide than the frame, in which case it will be further from the wall than you think, which might change things?