How many painters here sand between coats as a matter of course?

[albaPhenom]

It’s only recently that I’ve realised you’re supposed to sand between courses with a light sand paper to give the wall a proper smooth finish.

Particularly on newly plastered walls.

I don’t see many people talking about this and I don’t believe any painter whose worked in my house in the past has done this.

Do you do it?

If not, why not?

If it’s something you would only do if the customer requested it, do you advise them to do it even if it’s at additional cost?

 

[opps]

When you say "courses", I guess you mean coats (of paint).

I sand emulsioned walls as a matter of course using 100 grit paper on a random orbital sander. I do so for two reasons- 1. I can see any high or low spots- 2. I helps to sand away any grime.

I don't like washing walls with sugar soap because of the potential mess. My sanders are connected to dust extractors so the process is cleaner than washing the walls.

I almost always sand newly plastered walls before applying any paint.

Not often, but if the client wants a significantly smoother finish on new plaster, I will sand in between coats of emulsion.

 

[johnny2007]

I sand before applying the first coat.
Never sanded in between coats and don't know anyone who does.
Differently from wood, where a smooth perfect finish requires sanding in between coats.

 

[albaPhenom]

Yeah, sorry I meant coats.

It’s interesting because I’ve never seen anyone sand between coats until I was watching this Canadian fellow on YouTube, think the channel is called Renovision.

Using a circular sanding pad on his pole and I assume a fairly high grit paper, he sanded each coat other than the top one and it was quick and easy.

He said you should always do this otherwise if you run your hand over the finished wall, the wall feels rough and gritty like a “dirty wall”… and he’s right, my walls feel exactly like that to the touch, I did them and they weren’t sanded.

 

[albaPhenom]

This video at the 6:00 mark.

They’re Canadian so I’ll assume that’s a plasterboard wall with either a skim or a tape & fill.

I like watching some of the North American stuff because they do things so different to us a lot of the time.

 

[johnny2007]

If you want a smooth finish on your walls you need to paint them by brush.
Personally I prefer the orange skin finish in matt, but that's a matter of preference.

 

[albaPhenom]

If you want a smooth finish on your walls you need to paint them by brush.
Personally I prefer the orange skin finish in matt, but that's a matter of preference.

The brush marks wouldn't be visible by doing that?

 

[johnny2007]

The brush marks wouldn't be visible by doing that?

Well, it depends from the decorator.
I saw some good ones who leave no brush marks on any surface with any paint.
I'm not one of them.

 

[albaPhenom]

Well, it depends from the decorator.
I saw some good ones who leave no brush marks on any surface with any paint.
I'm not one of them.

 

[opps]

If you want a smooth finish on your walls you need to paint them by brush.
Personally I prefer the orange skin finish in matt, but that's a matter of preference.

Sorry, but as a decorator, I can spot brush marks when I walk in to a room. The most flat and uniform finish that I have ever come across was an airless spray,

 

[opps]

Well, it depends from the decorator.
I saw some good ones who leave no brush marks on any surface with any paint.
I'm not one of them.

That really isn't possible. I use shedloads of additives in my paint to help me lay them off. Regardless, you will have brush marks. I spent many years painting MDF units. I made a point of ensuring that my brush strokes were consistent with the trams (edit: styles) and rails. My intended finish was supposed to like like the MDF had been sprayed with pre-cat, and then painted by hand.

The only way of ensuring that you wont have any brush marks is to dilute the paint so much that you need to apply 5(?) coats.

 

[Notch7]

That really isn't possible. I use shedloads of additives in my paint to help me lay them off. Regardless, you will have brush marks. I spent many years painting MDF units. I made a point of ensuring that my brush strokes were consistent with the trams and rails. My intended finish was supposed to like like the MDF had been sprayed with pre-cat, and then painted by hand.

The only way of ensuring that you wont have any brush marks is to dilute the paint so much that you need to apply 5(?) coats.

almost impossible to avoid brush marks in waterbased, although Owatrol helps -I used to make timber orangeries, the finish was sprayed in the factory and touch up etc on site. Brushing the paint always left significant brush marks -the stuff just doesnt want to flow out


but even with with oil based, there will always be brush marks



Mind you, when people choose a hand painted kitchen, they want brush marks!

 

[opps]

almost impossible to avoid brush marks in waterbased, although Owatrol helps -I used to make timber orangeries, the finish was sprayed in the factory and touch up etc on site. Brushing the paint always left significant brush marks -the stuff just doesnt want to flow out


but even with with oil based, there will always be brush marks



Mind you, when people choose a hand painted kitchen, they want brush marks!

I think you mean Floetrol and not Owatrol, when talking about waterbased paints (that said, Owatrol make Floetrol- the oil based version is Owatrol Oil).

Owatrol oil and a good quality brush will definitely minimise brushmarks in oil based paints, but, yeah their will be brush marks. As you said, the only way to be completely free of brush marks is to spray. The problem with spraying touch up areas is that you need to polish out the halo effect, which isn't always possible or practical.