how to box in wall hung frame?

[pana37]

as per title, trying to work out how to box this in? i have my exterior grade plywood for top sides and front, which will be tiled on directly on top of the frame.

i need to box it in currently the Grohe wall hung pan is bolted to the wall. all i can see is 2 largish holes at the top with side of the frame.

can i just simply drill some holes into it and screw in with self tappers?

any ideas please thanks

 

[45yearsagasman]

What about using a camera and posting some pics? Your plan is feasible if you plan to tile over the box.

 

[pana37]

Hi Pete thanks for your reply, as requested below

 

[ALCPlumbing]

Personally I would use some 2x2 to make a frame around the grohe frame and then ply across the front, top and sides to decorate on but I see no reason why you couldn't screw straight to the frame.

 

[pana37]

so do i need to simply use self tappers into the frame? ideally i want to keep the frame width to a minimum so will be using marine ply direct to frame

 

[Norcon]

Yes self tappers direct to the frame.

The water connection should be pressure tested before concealing.
Either that or a shed load off ptfe or leave access.

 

[newbuildinstaller]

Dont lots of these frames. We screwed the ply direct to the frame.

YOU MUST MUST MUST have no flex in the ply use very thick stuff otherwise the tiles will crack also very string tiles!

 

[ALCPlumbing]

And tile on to a removable lid of ply. Then just silicone down or use mirror capped screws. This way any maintenance can be carried out easily.

 

[pana37]

Dont lots of these frames. We screwed the ply direct to the frame.

YOU MUST MUST MUST have no flex in the ply use very thick stuff otherwise the tiles will crack also very string tiles!

How many mm thick of ply do you use?

 

[Norcon]

And tile on to a removable lid of ply. Then just silicone down or use mirror capped screws. This way any maintenance can be carried out easily.

Removable lid is a waste of time and looks bad. Nothing to maintain in that area.
Something like this at the water connection side would be better....
https://www.accesspanels.co.uk/tiled-doors-and-kits

 

[Richardthe3rd]

And tile on to a removable lid of ply. Then just silicone down or use mirror capped screws. This way any maintenance can be carried out easily.

Eh?? You don't need a removable lid, access to all the cistern internals is via the flush panel, that's how it's designed.

10 times easier to use a light frame of 50x50mm & clad with 12mm ply. Never ever screwed ply to the metal frame??

 

[Richardthe3rd]

And tile on to a removable lid of ply. Then just silicone down or use mirror capped screws. This way any maintenance can be carried out easily.

Removable lid is a waste of time and looks bad. Nothing to maintain in that area.
Something like this at the water connection side would be better....
https://www.accesspanels.co.uk/tiled-doors-and-kits[/QUOTE]

You generally don't need any access panels, a ISO valve for the ballvalve is accessible via the flush panel.

 

[pana37]

yes you can access everything behind the flush plate
thanks for the replies guys!

 

[Norcon]

You can't access the water fitting at the side should it leak.

 

[NotAgainFFS]

The water supply can be fitted to enter from the rear and accessed via the flush panel.

I've just fitted one of these frames and screwed some spare 25mm exterior ply directly to the frame to box it in. My joiner used screws that have a cutting point as well as being self tapping. I recall them being termed "window screws." Very handy.