How to build against boundary wall

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Hi,

I would like to build a shed to store bikes, trailer, animal hutch etc. Was going to use solid base and timber studs with membrane and cladding etc. With some floor and wall anchors for security. Was hoping to do a green roof too. The space is limited so was going to be about 6m x 1.5m and be no more than 2.5m high as on boundary, leaving us a 1m walkway between shed and house. And replace my tatty looking DIY pallet efforts.

The problem I have is it is against a boundary wall that is about 1.35m high. I don’t want to build on top of it so no come back from neighbour in future (students at the minute) - it’s ok if there is some overhang from roof as half the wall is mine). But I can’t really build away from wall as only a narrow space. So I’m after some advice on how to approach it. Would I attach vertical timber to the wall. And on the bit above the wall put some membrane and cladding? I wouldn’t want water seeping down the back making it damp. And would the first bit of cladding above brick height be at risk of rotting from rain splashing off the wall? Or should I build a solid wall on the back in front of the boundary with no air gap ? Bit stumped. Read plenty of stuff on lean to sheds but not where the brick wall is smaller than the shed. Any advice or pointers to a site with example would be great.

I’ve put a couple of pictures of the wall, it’s where the 2 pallet stores are now. Thanks very much, Jon.
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Anything built against a boundary is a PITA for the occupants on both sides of the boundary. No access for maintenance of either the boundary wall or the back of the building. Water and debris run between the boundary wall and the building causing damage to both. It needs at least a 600mm gap for maintenance. Move it away from the wall and make it a bit smaller.
 
Anything built against a boundary is a PITA for the occupants on both sides of the boundary. No access for maintenance of either the boundary wall or the back of the building. Water and debris run between the boundary wall and the building causing damage to both. It needs at least a 600mm gap for maintenance. Move it away from the wall and make it a bit smaller.

Why not use the boundary wall as the back wall, built as a lean-to? Build up the height of the wall with more bricks, maybe limit the height to a more sensible 2.25m. The roof will need to be lower at your side, unreasonable to discharge rain water from the roof, onto your neighbours property. The students will not care much, but you will need to clear it with their landlord.
 
Thanks for reply. I don’t think I can realistically have a 600mm gap, then the shed then gap to house. The entire width from boundary wall to kitchen wall is 2.6m. So 600mm would leave 2m. So about 1m for shed. So not really practical - need about 1.3m internal width for trailer. I’ll have another think. Ta
 
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You could build two ends secured to the wall.
A bit of removable (from inside) additional material to add height. if needed.
Fit guttering so it remains on your side of the wall and drains into a drain or water butt.
Construct the shed with sections that could be removed or opened if access to the wall was needed.

If you didn't want to attach anything to the wall, concrete fence spurs adjacent to the wall.Then your framework for the ends fitted to them
 
Thanks Harry and TigerCubRider.

I don’t mind attaching to the wall, just want to avoid building on top of it. It’s a sublet job next door, students renting off landlord, who rents off mgmt company on behalf of owner so gets a bit of a pain so want to avoid seeking permission. I’ll give the landlord/students a courtesy heads up if we do anything. The wall is freestanding (a gate one side, hedge the other) about 6m long. We’ve not needed to maintain it in 15 yrs and the previous landlord wouldn’t have touched it and he owned both houses for about 30 odd years.

So think my concern is more about stopping water getting in from the top of the wall when rains and splashes. Say if I used some vertical studs attached to our side of wall with some membrane and then cladding (would overhang top boundary by depth of cladding). And try and seal bottom would tgat work or just be a non starter?
 

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