How to cut bottom of fence to stop it rotting

[C0mbat]

Hi all,

I've already asked this question in the Garden section but it was part of a longer post. So I want to be specific.

I have a fence that I need to treat but before treating it I need to clean it. However, I think I also need to find a way of cutting a couple of inches from the bottom of the slats because rot is likely already setting in due to it touching the tarmac. I think the tarmac was put down after the fence, which is why it touches. See the attached photo.

Is there any way to cut it safely and easily? What are my alternatives if not?

Would a reciprocating saw work? The gaps between the slats are pretty small so my only thought would be to cut out a bigger gap at an angle first before then cutting straight across. But even then it's seems a bit of a stretch. I have worx tools so something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/WORX-WX500-9-Cordless-Reciprocating-Saw-Bare/dp/B083QYPG3D/ref=sr_1_6?crid=5JKU8H7BVQMS&keywords=worx+reciprocating&qid=1682842734&s=diy&sprefix=worx+re,diy,105&sr=1-6

Or maybe a pruning saw: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Folding-Pr...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

 

[Burnerman]

Consider using a jigsaw or a multitool........it looks like you could use the existing path as a guide if using a iigsaw.
John

 

[C0mbat]

Consider using a jigsaw or a multitool........it looks like you could use the existing path as a guide if using a iigsaw.
John

Thanks John. A jigsaw looks like just the trick. It looks like you can get blade heights as little as 3.8mm so that would fit easily in between the slats and save me having to initially cut at an angle.

What is the typical distance between the edge of the sole on a jigsaw and the blade? Because if I use the tarmac as a guide then the amount of slat removed by the blade will be equal to that distance. I want to make sure it is appropriate (i.e. not too much or too little). If it is then I might buy one from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WORX-WX543-9-Cordless-Jigsaw-Bare-Unit/dp/B0828GYXVP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1RM6G8EGDZV0E&keywords=worx%2Bjigsaw&qid=1682843619&s=diy&sprefix=worx%2Bjigsaw%2Cdiy%2C101&sr=1-3&th=1

 

[Lower]

A reciprocating saw would be better than a jigsaw for that length of cut. The blades are bigger and stronger.

 

[Burnerman]

I think you may find a jigsaw (with a coarse timber blade) a little easier to control than a reciprocating saw, but of course it is the choice of the individual.
Resting the jigsaw on a length of timber as you cut means that you can cut higher than just using the saw alone......skidding the timber along the blocks, if you get my drift.
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

I have a cheap mini circular saw that would suit this.
Obviously you need to ensure that you don’t cut into the vertical posts. The mini saws normally have a plunge mode. Or set the depth equal to the panel thickness

 

[C0mbat]

I think you may find a jigsaw (with a coarse timber blade) a little easier to control than a reciprocating saw, but of course it is the choice of the individual.
Resting the jigsaw on a length of timber as you cut means that you can cut higher than just using the saw alone......skidding the timber along the blocks, if you get my drift.
John

@Burnerman @Lower

Thanks for both of your replies. I've just read through the below article comparing the two. While having the extra omph of the reciprocating saw would be good I think the jigsaw might be better for my task. The smaller blades should allow me to cut straight rather than having to cut in at am angle first. Plus it should leave a slightly smoother finish.

Jigsaw vs. Reciprocating Saw: Which Cutting Tool is Best for Your Project?

Jigsaws and reciprocating saws are versatile tools, but their uses are often confused. Here, Bob Vila takes a closer look, so you know which cutting tool is best for your project.

www.bobvila.com

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I'd use whatever I had available, not worth buying another tool if you already have one.

 

[C0mbat]

I'd use whatever I had available, not worth buying another tool if you already have one.

I dint have anything. Unless a bread knife counts .

 

[opps]

@Burnerman @Lower

Thanks for both of your replies. I've just read through the below article comparing the two. While having the extra omph of the reciprocating saw would be good I think the jigsaw might be better for my task. The smaller blades should allow me to cut straight rather than having to cut in at am angle first. Plus it should leave a slightly smoother finish.

Jigsaw vs. Reciprocating Saw: Which Cutting Tool is Best for Your Project?

Jigsaws and reciprocating saws are versatile tools, but their uses are often confused. Here, Bob Vila takes a closer look, so you know which cutting tool is best for your project.

www.bobvila.com

The jigsaw will only leave a smooth finish on the other side of the fence. The side in the photo will have visible chips. Also consider that the bits where the posts are will need to be cut using a different tool. The same applies if using a reciprocating saw.

If I had to do it I would use my old Festool plunge saw, it has a flat saw blade cover, but I would first lay some thin sheets of plywood to protect the saw.

Which ever tool you decide to use, just make sure that there will be enough clearance to get your hands around the handle without your knuckles rubbing on the tarmac. Oh and wait until the timber is dry. Cutting wet timber with spinning blades can be dangerous, and even with jigsaws can be problematic.

 

[C0mbat]

@opps Thanks for your post. I had no idea what a festool plunge saw was but they look like beasts. Plus they're very expensive so I think the Worx jigsaw is a good place to start. Is there anyway I can minimise the chipping using it?

Thanks for the other advice to

 

[opps]

@opps Thanks for your post. I had no idea what a festool plunge saw was but they look like beasts. Plus they're very expensive so I think the Worx jigsaw is a good place to start. Is there anyway I can minimise the chipping using it?

Thanks for the other advice to

If you draw an accurate pencil line where the cut will be, you will then be able to run a stanley knife very, very slightly above the cut line. The knife line should prevent any significant chips above it.

If, for example, your jigsaw wants to cut 1" up from the tarmac, use a length of 1" timber to run the pencil against. If higher, use some plastic shims to raise the timber guide up. Then run a regular stanley knife along the pencil line. Alternatively, ditch the pencil and use an 18mm snap off blade knife to score the timber as you run it along the timber guide. You will need to extend the blade far enough for the blade to sit flush on the timber.

If you run a regular stanley knife along the timber guide, you will find yourself cutting downwards.

 

[C0mbat]

If you draw an accurate pencil line where the cut will be, you will then be able to run a stanley knife very, very slightly above the cut line. The knife line should prevent any significant chips above it.

If, for example, your jigsaw wants to cut 1" up from the tarmac, use a length of 1" timber to run the pencil against. If higher, use some plastic shims to raise the timber guide up. Then run a regular stanley knife along the pencil line. Alternatively, ditch the pencil and use an 18mm snap off blade knife to score the timber as you run it along the timber guide. You will need to extend the blade far enough for the blade to sit flush on the timber.

If you run a regular stanley knife along the timber guide, you will find yourself cutting downwards.

Great, thanks

 

[Odds]

If you want to avoid awkwardly cutting along the bottom, maybe you could consider attaching a damp-proof membrane to the fence then attaching a piece of treated timber along the bottom to take up the water? (cut at a 45degree angle for water runoff, obviously.)

 

[C0mbat]

If you want to avoid awkwardly cutting along the bottom, maybe you could consider attaching a damp-proof membrane to the fence then attaching a piece of treated timber along the bottom to take up the water? (cut at a 45degree angle for water runoff, obviously.)

Thanks. I'm not quite sure what you mean? But there is no space underneath the existing slats to put anything.