How to level a dip at back of garden

[molenpad]

I recently removed an overgrown rowan and lilac tree from the back of my garden, which has left an 8ftx8ft patch of land which slopes down away from the existing lawn to the neighbours fence, It's a gradual 3ft drop towards the fence. The neighbours garden is higher up than ours, so the concrete base panel of the fence is higher than our existing lawn, which is the level I want everything at.

I want to bring make the dip level with the existing lawn so that I can lay a new lawn to have a bigger space, problem is, how best to level the ground when the intention is to relawn the whole area.

Iv'e dug as many roots and rocks out of the ground as possible, so I'm thinking now I could just order a couple of ton of topsoil and pour it into the dip until its level? Or would that sink over time? Maybe I should put some crushed rock down or MOT first as a base?

 

[blup]

Sub base for drainage and at least 12 ideally 18 inches of top soil

Blup

 

[Dereekoo]

Sub base is for roads and airfields and builders trying to get rid of their spoil. Topsoil depth to suit treaded or rolled in but not heavily compacted

 

[blup]

I was thinking broken bricks

Blup

 

[Odds]

Sub base is for roads and airfields and builders trying to get rid of their spoil. Topsoil depth to suit treaded or rolled in but not heavily compacted

To maintain the soil it's helpful to add a mix of perlite and small stones. That'll help with drainage and keep the area level after laying grass then walking over the surface. If the OP has gone into the sub-strata a layer of clay could be put in place to a depth of six inches which will naturally support the upper levels.

 

[Mike13]

It also depends upon the natural soil type for your area. In my garden it is stony/sandy, with occasional lenses of clay that means occasional streams pop up, those move about from year to year, but mostly free draining, and no clay heave to worry about. If you have heavy clay around and under you then a sub base that drains is a good idea. If it is the same price delivered then all soil is one drop and not two, so cost out some options. You may have neighbours with some rubble to get rid of? That might make it cheaper to do.

 

[molenpad]

I was thinking broken bricks

Blup

I have plenty of those as I've also knocked down a low decorative stone wall! I was thinking about chucking them in before putting top soil down

Thanks all for your help - the soil is not clay like at all, the lawn is already raised so its quite free draining, apart from some rocks and roots, the soil at the max depth is mainly just that - soil. It's been raining hard on and off for a few days and no water has pooled in this area so I think its fairly free draining. I'm thinking just top soil will do the trick, compact by treading for a few layers before its level. I want to put a new lawn down in early autumn if possible so that will give time for the top soil to settle and hopefully not sprout too many weeds

 

[Odds]

I have plenty of those as I've also knocked down a low decorative stone wall! I was thinking about chucking them in before putting top soil down

Thanks all for your help - the soil is not clay like at all, the lawn is already raised so its quite free draining, apart from some rocks and roots, the soil at the max depth is mainly just that - soil. It's been raining hard on and off for a few days and no water has pooled in this area so I think its fairly free draining. I'm thinking just top soil will do the trick, compact by treading for a few layers before its level. I want to put a new lawn down in early autumn if possible so that will give time for the top soil to settle and hopefully not sprout too many weeds

If you're going to 'tread it down' at least lay a few planks across the surface to even out your footsteps...then rake it to make sure it's not only even but allow furrows for the grass seed to settle and a breath of air into the mix.