How to make stud walls meet at right-angles?

[shagster]

I've looked at a few guides, but none seem to cover this. I've put the last stud on each wall adjacent to one another, each one is about stud's depth (3x2, about 65mm) from the corner, then put a couple of blocks of wood in the corner to keep the two walls from moving against each other.

I made it so there is 1200 distance from the outside corner to a stud, so the outside plaster board will be uncut, but that means the inside plasterboard will have to be cut, and the internal corner won't have any taper where the boards meet. (Or was I supposed to add an extra stud to avoid cutting the internal board???).

Anyways, my main question: Is it normal to leave the plasterboard unsupported right at the corner or do I need to add more support for the edge? Also, any idea what kind of bead is best for this? Plastic? Metal? Just tape it?

Hope this makes sense!

cheers,
S.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You should really finished the wall with and upright stud at the external corner, then added an additional stud to catch the internal edge of the internal board.
But if you can not alter this, I would advice installing some support for the corner if you can, but it is not a must as you will get away with slight overlap.
It will not matter if you lose your tapered edge at either internal or external corner, the most important place for tapered edges to butt up are at joints that meet each other on flat walls.
I would use metal thin cot beads for the external angles.
I guess this is a tape joint and fill application, rather than a two coat plaster skim.

 

[shagster]

Ha! The problem with a stud on the external corner was finding one straight along two edges . But it won't be much trouble to screw a few offcuts onto one of the existing studs to take it to the corner if you think it could do with the extra support. I was intending get the whole lot skimmed after I'd assembled it, taking it out about 7-8mm which will suit the door lining I've put in. Oddly enough I couldn't find a door lining to suit 3x2 studwork with 12mm plasterboard either side, I guess I'd have had to plane one down or make my own, but I decided the wall would feel better with a skim anyhow.

thanks,
S.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Scant usually does the trick.
But you intend to skim 7-8mm, is this both sides of the wall, which way round did you do the stud work?
75mm + 12.5mm + 12.5mm = 100mm
You can get 106mm door linings, giving you 3mm skim each side of wall.
That's a two coat application of 2mm then 1mm skim. Just as it should be!

 

[shagster]

I didn't really mean 3x2: http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/107177
Width: 63mm (2 1/2"), Thickness: 38mm (1 1/2")
and then further down, on the same page: Nominal size 50 x 75mm
Don't you just love this 'cut' vs 'planed' confusion?
I guess I screwed up and got the wrong something, either door lining or studs, but was advised that these studs would be perfectly good enough for an en-suite bathroom. They seem to be strong enough and don't move a lot when I lean on them.
Anyhow, my first stud wall, and my first door lining went into said stud wall, please don't tell me I'm going to have to take it out and plane it because it was a b**** to get that lining all square and level!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

So what you have is
68mm+12.5+12.5mm=93mm
and a 106mm door lining
103mm-93mm=13mm.
Quite a lot to skim out, would would normally lay 2 coats of plaster one at 2mm and the second at 1mm.
Spreading 6.5mm of plaster is possible but I prefer not to lay a surface of more than 5mm in one go, so you may need to reapply a further two coats at a later stage.
There are over options one is not worth considering as you have already purchased boards, you could have installed 15mm PBs, not a normally available size but can still be sourced.
or another alternative would have been to off set your door lining and boarded one side of the stud with a double layer of boards using 12.5mm and 9.5mm BPs
If you off set your door lining correctly you could have.
A double layer at 22mm (12.5+9.5mm) your stud at 68mm and your second single layer of PBs at 12.5mm
Given you an overall wall thickness of 102.2mm. could be a bit tight on the plaster though!
also you could pack out the stud work either one side or both depending whether you want realign the door lining with suitable sized timber packing strips. ie 6 or 7mm on one side or 3mm down both sides.

 

[shagster]

I like the idea of a double layer of boards, should have thought of that one. I only need to add the extra plaster to one wall, and it's about 1700w x 2300h (with a full size door in the middle) so probably won't amount to much plaster. I'll probably just build it up in layers.

Thanks for your lengthy advice!