How to repair brickwork (split off from old thread)

[stimstem]

Hi folks, I have been trying to find a clear answer for this query and I think I know how to approach this but I just wanted to ask some people who know what they’re doing and confirm (Im a 30 (F) year old first time buyer and I need a real dad).

So I just purchased a house and in one of the cupboards there obviously used to be an integrated fridge here - but it’s been pulled out and replacement shelves have been put up. At the back of the cupboard I can see exposed brick and towels, that have been sort of stuffed into the wall cavity and some electrics that aren’t set into the wall properly. I have purchased PVA mix and pre-mixed plaster to fix the exposed brick and secure the socket into place, but I was wondering what the best approach to this to fix is? My plan was essentially to turn off the electrics, PVA around all of the exposed brick and then plaster everything into place, then turn all the electrics back on once everything is dry, however I’m wondering if there’s more sealing that I need to do around the electrical box, or if it needs to be drilled into place? I even wonder what this whether this is something I should attempt myself or whether I should just get a professional in and even whether that should be somebody who’s an electrician or some other kind of trades person?

As you can see from the photograph the people who were previously here seem to have just siliconed in the socket… For further context as well there are more electricals to the side of the where the towels are stuffed.

So can I just PVA and plaster this or are there some safety concerns I need to consider before I do this? Should I do it myself or should I get a pro in?

See pic below, plug works and gets power but they’re just very shoogly. This is my first post so please forgive me if I’ve posted in the wrong place or I’ve missed some of the FAQs. I did go and have a read but didn’t find my specific scenario there. Thank you in advance.

 

[Richard C]

Wow, this thread was a long time ago but it just popped up in my email; I'm now well retired & even forgotten what most of it was about! But, looking at the photograph, there is no way that complies with building Regs, you can't seal a cavity with old towels! The cabling also looks amateurish, dodgy & in no way complies with Electrical Regs. I would advise you get the the electrics checked by a "proper electrician" or at least someone that has a clue; is that a two pin plug? For your own safety & piece of mind, it might be advisable to get an "Periodic Inspection" on the whole electrical installation. If you've only just purchased the property, this is usually part of the sellers pack (but not compulsory) & you might have some "come back" on the seller for any problems this throws up, depending on the circumstances of your purchase. After sealing the cavities properly, securing the electrical box & confirming cabling is in accordance with Regs, you don't necessarily need to plaster finish the wall if it's not seen. But, depending on where the socket is & what it is (now) to be used for, it may not comply with Electrical regs, but my experience is only up to 15th edition so a bit put of date! Your post seems to indicate your not that experienced so professional advice/help is advised.

 

[JohnD]

To repair brickwork, sand and cement mortar with cut bricks is more suitable than plaster. It will also hold electrical backboxes and fill chases. It is easier for an amateur to work with as it has a long working life. You can make it fairly flat with a steel or plastic trowel, or even a broad filling knife. If you want a smooth decorating surface you can skim it over with fine plaster once it has fully hardened. Spray the brickwork with water before you start because cement hardens by reaction with water, not by drying out. Premature drying will leave it weak and crumbly.

Clean rubble out of the cavity before you start (a builders canister vac can do this, a domestic vac will be damaged) and I'd pack insulation into the gap to prevent more detritus falling in while you work. It will also block draughts which are probably severe from that hole.

I don't understand what the plastic thing in your pic is.

 

[noseall]

Hi folks, I have been trying to find a clear answer for this query and I think I know how to approach this but I just wanted to ask some people who know what they’re doing and confirm (Im a 30 (F) year old first time buyer and I need a real dad).

So I just purchased a house and in one of the cupboards there obviously used to be an integrated fridge here - but it’s been pulled out and replacement shelves have been put up. At the back of the cupboard I can see exposed brick and towels, that have been sort of stuffed into the wall cavity and some electrics that aren’t set into the wall properly. I have purchased PVA mix and pre-mixed plaster to fix the exposed brick and secure the socket into place, but I was wondering what the best approach to this to fix is? My plan was essentially to turn off the electrics, PVA around all of the exposed brick and then plaster everything into place, then turn all the electrics back on once everything is dry, however I’m wondering if there’s more sealing that I need to do around the electrical box, or if it needs to be drilled into place? I even wonder what this whether this is something I should attempt myself or whether I should just get a professional in and even whether that should be somebody who’s an electrician or some other kind of trades person?

As you can see from the photograph the people who were previously here seem to have just siliconed in the socket… For further context as well there are more electricals to the side of the where the towels are stuffed.

So can I just PVA and plaster this or are there some safety concerns I need to consider before I do this? Should I do it myself or should I get a pro in?

See pic below, plug works and gets power but they’re just very shoogly. This is my first post so please forgive me if I’ve posted in the wrong place or I’ve missed some of the FAQs. I did go and have a read but didn’t find my specific scenario there. Thank you in advance.
View attachment 371049

Isolate electrics and remove plug front. Secure/insulate cable ends. Depending on plaster thickness - dab a piece of plasterboard onto the wall with a back-box sized square hole in it. Ensure there is a continuous bead of dab around the back box. Or, if tolerance is lean, plaster with thistle bonding coat and skim. Ensure the back box is grabbed with well placed bonding.

Tape and skim with finishing plaster . Replace plug front.

That's how a pro would do it.

 

[robinbanks]

Im a 30 (F) year old first time buyer and I need a real dad

No, you're every bit as capable as a male. Even stuff that looks like it can only be done with brute strength can be overcome with technique and/or mechanical assistance if you can't find multiple hands to make it light work

In this case, your brickwork looks in reasonable condition so I would simply buy:

a sheet of plasterboard with insulation on the back of it,
a can of soudal plasterboard adhesive foam,
an electrical plasterboard back box whose depth is the same or less as the plasterboard,
a woodsaw,
a jab saw,
a tape measure,
a pencil

Measure the cupboard and mark this size out on the plasterboard.
A handy technique for getting straight lines for this is:
have the plasterboard lying flat on a raised support (so it is like a table), pull the tape measure out so you can see the measurement you want to make, clamp finger and thumb around the tape at the measurement and put said finger and thumb against the straight edge of the board, hook the other end of the tape around the pencil, and then move your hands at the same time, using the tape measure to enforce a constant distance between your hands. If you don't have a pencil you can simply use the hook of the tape measure to leave a visible mark on the plasterboard surface

Cut the plasterboard panel to size using the woodsaw. Remember to fully support the plasterboard as you near the end of the cut because its own weight will twist and snap it. If you don't have an assistant you can play the board on a table so you're cutting parallel with the table edge but then as you ear the end of the cut, turn the board to an angle so both sides of the cut are supported by the table at the far end from there the saw is

Turn off the electric and undo the socket face.

Before doing the next bit, you're going to have to move the socket slightly so the thickness of your insulated plasterboard doesn't cause the plug to foul on the drawer. Move the socket down and to the left to give some more slack in the wire then arrange the wire so it is horizontal, then measure the distance from the side and the floor of where the wire goes into the back box

Use your phone to take a picture of where all the wires go then undo the screws just enough to let the wires come out. Do not remove the screws all the way.
Transfer your measurement of where the wire is now, to the board. Knock a hole in the plastic electrical back box you purchased to match the place where the wire comes into your existing back box. For example your wire comes into the top left, so knock out the pre-formed top left hole in the new back box. Place the back box on the plasterboard with the knocked out hole circling the mark you made and draw around the back box with the pencil. Use the jab saw to cut the hole by ditching/wiggling /drilling it through the board in one corner and cutting from there. Cut very slightly (2mm) larger than the pencil mark.
To be clear, the plastic back box should be placed on the board so the smaller end is touching. The you look like a square "bowl" with a lip the way around. Do not draw round the lip as the hole will end up too large. You may also have to scratch out the insulation to give some room for the wings that clamp the box against the board. Watch this YT video for info about how these boxes work and are installed. Don't install the box til you've fitted the plasterboard to the wall

Now that you have your board cut and shaped make a trial fit of it would any glue. If it snags or is too wide shave it down using the saw. Push those towels further into the gaps so they don't get in the way. Arrange the wire so it sticks straight out and can be easily threaded through the cut hole


Following the instructions on the glue can, foam the back of the board. You may wish to do that outside but be careful carrying it in so as not to knock it on anything. Prop it up in place and push it so the glue is surely contacting the wall (look through the socket hole, prop and leave to set - 1 hour should be fine

Fit the back box for the socket- back box into hole with wire poking through, wings pushed back and snapped outwards to grip the board. Wires back where they went before and screws tightened. Pull/wiggle on every wire and make sure it doesn't come out. Check all screws still feel right. Refit socket face

Probably you're done now; it's in a cupboard so no need to paint. If the cut edges are slightly raggedly you can cover that with a product called caulk, comes in a tube that you use a gun shaped device to squeeze out. If you buy the caulk the shop will probably have guns near by too. Buy a decent one as cheap guns make the job harder than it needs to be

Note; if this isn't an external wall, all the same process but you don't specifically need insulated plasterboard

 

[cdbe]

I'd probably ditch the socket - looks like a spur from an adjacent socket for the old appliance and not needed (and potentially dangerous to plug anything in with all those drawer baskets in the way) - ask on the electric forum about this. To cover the wall I'd suggest a sheet of white faced hardboard (bandq will cut to size - 5mm shorter and narrower than the opening) so it fits easily and stuck in place with plenty of cheap no-nails, which can also be used to seal the edges to a reasonable standard. I suggest this because it's easier than any type of plastering and is ready finished for the back of a cupboard, and it's thin - it looks from the picture that the shelf runners are a bit long for the cupboard and there's a danger they'll hit anything too thick. Don't worry about the facecloth, they clearly didn't have any "building paper" (old newspaper) to fill the gap. If the drawer runners won't even allow for hardboard either replace all the drawers! Or clean up the brickwork with a bit of filler and paint with some masonry paint.