Huston, we have a problem.... Dry ridge system failing repeatedly

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OK. Here goes....
We have a newbuild, which has glulam beams along the ridges of the roof.
Our builder, or rather our roof builder, decided that the 'best', (I suspect easiest) way to attach beams to the ridge was to cut them and join them to the SIDES of the ridge, like this.

roof-beam.jpg

When the dry ridge has been added, the width of the beam seems to make the ridge fail, I assume because the ridge is too wide.
Twice, in two big storms, we've lost slates along the top of the roof, and the dry ridge system ends up looking like this.

roof-line.jpg

1: Am I right that this is happening because the width of the beam is too wide for the ridge tiles and that the system is breaking down for that reason?

2: If so, would putting another, narrower ridge down the full length of the ridge, with angled chocks up to it, make the dry ridge and ridge tiles work properly?

Like This:

roof-beam-2.jpg

This is a 4x2 to scale. I could either just slice it down its length flush with the top of the angled chocks, or cut an angle into it at the top. Which would work better?

Thanks, people. I'm not a roofer.....
 
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OK. Here goes....
We have a newbuild, which has glulam beams along the ridges of the roof.
Our builder, or rather our roof builder, decided that the 'best', (I suspect easiest) way to attach beams to the ridge was to cut them and join them to the SIDES of the ridge, like this.

View attachment 331573

When the dry ridge has been added, the width of the beam seems to make the ridge fail, I assume because the ridge is too wide.
Twice, in two big storms, we've lost slates along the top of the roof, and the dry ridge system ends up looking like this.

View attachment 331572

1: Am I right that this is happening because the width of the beam is too wide for the ridge tiles and that the system is breaking down for that reason?

2: If so, would putting another, narrower ridge down the full length of the ridge, with angled chocks up to it, make the dry ridge and ridge tiles work properly?

Like This:

View attachment 331649

This is a 4x2 to scale. I could either just slice it down its length flush with the top of the angled chocks, or cut an angle into it at the top. Which would work better?

Thanks, people. I'm not a roofer.....
It's not that simple.

You would need to add another course of tiles, surely?

Fixings wise, I can't see an issue (regardless of the width of the ridge) as long as he has used long enough fixings.

150mm wide at the top is bonkers. We get fidgety with a 50mm wide ridge! So much so that I have even fixed an angle fillet at the top, so that it can collect the tiny bit of top batten that rests on it.
 
150mm will then give the ridge little lap over the slates.
Its simple enough to fill in the missing section above the 150mm the you'll need another slate course and cut.
they look a bit like Brazilian slate but I may be wrong as the picture isn't sharp enough . If so, slate hooks are called for.
as it is it will not work as you have found out
 

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