Hydrangeas

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I have had some superb advice relating to Hydrangeas from contributors to DITnot.com. This advice has resulted in my Hydrangeas wil now require transplanting from their pots to a sutable place in my garden. As a result I seek some more advice.
1. When is the best time to transplant from pots to garden.
2. What aspect do Hydrangeas thrive in - Direct sun or partial shade.
3. Do Hydrangeas require a lot of watering when planted in the garden, or are they happier in dry conditions.
Thanks in anticipation of advice.
 
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Sorry if I'm a bit late with this reply.
Best time to transplant any shrub is either spring or autumn - this gives the plant a chance to estabish a bit before the winter sets in.
Hy's prefer partial shade, but having said that, I;ve planted plenty in full sun - got some in my own garden (south facing, boiling all summer long) and they are fine.

They are happiest in fairly moist soil but again, I've planted plenty in dry clay and they have survived. Just make sure they are well watered in the first year.
Many varieties actually get droopy leaves when they are desparate for a drink - so then give 'em one!
 
Thanks Dreddypuss.
I will transplant the Hydranrger I have in a pot at the moment, in October.
I have always had problems with getting Hydrangeas to Flower. My present plant is in wonderful condition but again no blooms. I am advised from DIYnot contributors that Hydrangeas flower on last years growth, so my problem has been over pruning, I think. I am going to leave out pruning this year and transplant in October and then keep my fingers crossed. Have you any comments on this approach?
You may have guessed I not the greatest of gardeners but I am trying.
Thanks for the help.
 
That's what this great forum is for! Don't apologise for asking....

As a general rule, the cause of no flowers can be:

- Pruning too hard. Most Hy's do, indeed, flower on the previous years growth. These are mainly the mop-head type (big, round fat flower heads). So for these varieties you prune the shrub after it flowers.
Some, however, (some of the lace-cap types or modern species) flower on the current seasons growth - in which case you prune in late winter or early spring when the shrub is dormant.
My fail-safe (!) method of pruning if my client or I don't know which variety - then you have 2 options: if you can't stand the sight of the manky flower heads in late autumn, you take the flower head off ONLY to the next pair of leaves down the stem. Otherwise, try and leave the flowerheads on over winter (this seems to protect the new buds) and take the flower heads off using same method in early spring once the weather warms up.
If you need to prune drastically to reduce the size of the Hy, again, do this in early spring but be prepared to probably lose that years flowers - but they usually recover in time. Don't take out more than 1 in 4 of the old stems ( the younger ones are more pliable and greener) at once and try to reduce the size over a 2 year period.
Pruning rules in gardening always have a 'but' !

Other causes of non-flowering:
Too much shade - Hy's need some sun to flower well.
Too much fertiliser, especially one high in Nitrogen - this is especially good for green, leafy growth - but not many flowers.
If you look on any fertiliser packet it will tell you the NPK ratio/percentage
N is Nitrogen - green, leafy growth
P - Phosphorous - good for root and flower formation
K - Potassium (Potash) - good for flowers, fruit, and general health & strenghth of plant.
So if you have been feeding with a high nitrogen, pop down to your local plant centre & get Sulphate of Potash ( much cheaper than branded names).
Having said that, any plant needs a balance of NPK - but this is more important in a pot than in the ground. If your soil is anywhere reasonable (ie a general purpose fertiliser and compost/manure added to the soil spring & summer) then usually the soil will give the plant all the nutrients it needs. Clay soil is generally more fertile/full of nutrients than a sandy soil - but, of course, a complete b******* to dig or improve.

Other causes of non-flowering are prolonged winters with heavy frosts. This kills the new emerging flower buds. I don't really see this as a big problem in this country - however this spring was very peculiar as it got very warm very early on (which made the plants spring into life) and then it got very cold with a few late frosts. Certainly this year all the plants I look after don;t know whether they are coming or going, and ther normal rules don't seem to apply.
 
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Hi Dreddypuss
Thanks again so Much for that comprehensive advice.
I have of course copied both of you replies to my filing system for safe keeping and future reference.
As you said this is a fantastic site for advice on all sorts of subjects.
I have tried for years to get gardening advice particularly for Hydrangeas, and this is the first time I have received positive, no nonsense, information.
I will now look forward to some reasonable Hy's next year. If I am successful with these I may give Chrysanthemums a go. Now this has been another gardening area in which I have shown spectacular failure in the past.
Thanks Again
 
Hi Dreddypuss,
The Chrysanth failure was quite a few years ago, and to be quite honest I think the failure was more down to not attending to them as much as was needed. It was before I took early retirement and pressure of work resulted in not having the time to attend to the plants.
The soil at that time was a very good quality soil rather loamy in texture. I have since changed location and unfortunately the soil I am dealing with presently is very poor quality. The area was previously woodland and a lot of soil was imported after the house was built. The result is that we are on a very heavy blue clay bed (you could almost use it for pottery) with maybe 12 inches of top soil which again is very heavy clay based with very little moisture retention qualities. This results in very poor drainage and dries out quickly in the Summer and Bogs very easily in the winter (An absolute nightmare) This is why I tend to struggle along with Flowering plant and shrubs in Pots. Obviously these take quite a lot of time watering and feeding but at least I get some colour. I have an area where the builder left some trees (Douglas Fir) and the soil around those trees again is low quality in which I have planted some shrubs which survive quite well considering the trees take most of the water. I have found woodland plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas are quite happy there.
I have had a difficult time with hedging which I tried Prunus Lusitanica (Portugese Laurel) and as you will know these plants do not like too much water around the roots. What I did was an error when first planting up and that was I got a JCB in to dig out the rough soil and clay bed along the line I was to plant the laurels and backfilled the trench with good top soil. The mistake was that the trench I think is acting rather like a sump and the laurels are struggling to flourish due to the collection of any water which is available into this sump. As a result of the poor quality soil, I therefore have ended up with a lot of lawned area and use pots to provide a bit of colour during the summer. Hence this Hydrangea plant which is in a pot and doing well in the foliage department but is outgrowing its home presently and I need to get it into my garden some where. I think I will transplant into an area of reasonable soil which has been improved by compost over a few years but is near some Douglas fir. I think I will need to water it quite a lot as these firs are very thirsty. If I were to try Chrysanthemums again I think I would have to establish a raised bed into which I would have to transport some decent soil. Again this will be rather labour intensive due to the drainage and the lack of water retention properties of the area generally. any water in the raised bed will I think be drawn away by the rapid drying out of the top soil surrounding the bed.
In the end the amount of work may not be justified.
Thanks for your interest.
 
Oh, you do know how to enjoy yourself!!!!!
By the sounds of things though you have a fairly good grip of the soil you have, the problems its causing and the ways to sove it - all sounds perfect sense to me.
If you are desparate to grow chrysanths then definately the short term solution is to grow them in raised beds or pots, until the other soil is drastically improved. As you say, D.Firs (all firs for that matter) are very greedy plants and deprive all the surrounding soil of water and nutrients.
Realistically, a good soil should have top soil of at least 50cm in depth to support roots of smaller shrubs. Anything further down than that with nasty clay the roots won't be able to penetrate and the plants with ultimately die. All you can do over time is keep adding manure and any organic matter (your own compost and leaf mould are the very best) until such time comes as you have a decent layer of topsoil in which to plant.

Good luck - I don't envy you at all - and I'm a qualified gardener !!
Let me know how things go...
 

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