Icos HE 18 - Thump on ignition, LF fault

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This might save someone a little time....

Installed two years ago and has not been serviced since then.

Started to need the reset button to be used more and more frequently, some ignition sequences resulted in a thump as it ignited, then it finally started to show an LF fault several times.

Cleaned the condensate trap out, which was quite mucky, but not choked -then moved onto the ignition and flame detection. The electrode gap was 12mm (should be 3.5mm) due to the none earthed electrode having drooped down due to heat. The drooping electrode made it very difficult to get the ignitor out through the hole and there was some dark deposites on the outer insulator probably from it arcing down the outside to ground.

As a temporary bodge - attempted to straighten the electrode in the vice and the metal started to fracture, so arc welded across the fracture until a replacement can be sourced.

Boiler back in working order, no faults indicated.
 
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This might save someone a little time....

Installed two years ago and has not been serviced since then.

Started to need the reset button to be used more and more frequently, some ignition sequences resulted in a thump as it ignited, then it finally started to show an LF fault several times.

Cleaned the condensate trap out, which was quite mucky, but not choked -then moved onto the ignition and flame detection. The electrode gap was 12mm (should be 3.5mm) due to the none earthed electrode having drooped down due to heat. The drooping electrode made it very difficult to get the ignitor out through the hole and there was some dark deposites on the outer insulator probably from it arcing down the outside to ground.

As a temporary bodge - attempted to straighten the electrode in the vice and the metal started to fracture, so arc welded across the fracture until a replacement can be sourced.

Boiler back in working order, no faults indicated.

What's the problem then?
 
Worse still anything to do with the ignition should only be worked on by a registered engineer.

Most engineers know how to reset the gap without breaking them.

Tony
 
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Mmmm, I would have liked to have seen a registered engineer fix the gap on this one without breaking it :)
 
This might save someone a little time....

Installed two years ago and has not been serviced since then.

Started to need the reset button to be used more and more frequently, some ignition sequences resulted in a thump as it ignited, then it finally started to show an LF fault several times.

Cleaned the condensate trap out, which was quite mucky, but not choked -then moved onto the ignition and flame detection. The electrode gap was 12mm (should be 3.5mm) due to the none earthed electrode having drooped down due to heat. The drooping electrode made it very difficult to get the ignitor out through the hole and there was some dark deposites on the outer insulator probably from it arcing down the outside to ground.

As a temporary bodge - attempted to straighten the electrode in the vice and the metal started to fracture, so arc welded across the fracture until a replacement can be sourced.

Boiler back in working order, no faults indicated.

What's the problem then?

No problem, problem fixed - just thought it worth pointing out an alternative fault for the LF error.
 
It is indeed one cause of a LF fault code, but there are many other causes
Please stick to asking Questions NOT GIVING ANSWERS as it is clear you are neither Registered or Competent as a Gas Engineer! :confused:
 
Most engineers know how to reset the gap without breaking them.

Wot's your secret tony? I can break them just by looking at them from across the room. :LOL:
 
Ask in the other place Sooey! Been to any commercial kitchens lately?

We dont encourage DIY gas work here.

I would like to have seen Harry test the combustion gasses on his boiler!

Tony
 

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