IDEAL-HALO Weather Compensation

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Hi, are any of you using or familiar with the app based weather compensation via the Ideal Halo app. I upgraded to Halo in Feb 26 but it didn't work with my boiler. Prior to the upgrade i used the Ideal sensor on my ideal max heat boiler with honeywell wireless stat and it worked a dream, which led me to upgrade to Halo, which was a disaster. To cut a long story short i have accepted Ideal's offer to replace my boiler FOC, that way i get to keep my Ideal Halo and wiring centre and interface unit etc and when it's installed i SHOULD be able to see my boiler being controlled by the weather comp however, given my past experience with Ideal i do not have a lot of confidence that it will. I'd like to know if anyone actively uses the WC feature and are they happy with it? Do they have a chart or any literature from Ideal to help them select which setting to use so the end user can at least see how it is being controlled. In fact i'd like any feedback from anybody that uses the Halo system and to what effect any info would be a really big help. Thanks for listening.
 
I don’t have any experience with WC, only I know where it’s installed can affect its performance. If the Honeywell worked like a dream, why did you attempt to fix what wasn’t broken?
 
I have read about weather compensation, but fail to see how it will change the fuel used enough to be worth while, assuming that the existing set up is already using analogue control.
Boiler weather compensation uses an outdoor temperature sensor to automatically adjust the temperature of the water sent to your radiators (the flow temperature). When it is cold outside, it turns the radiator water hotter; when the weather is mild, it turns the water cooler.

How It Works

• Outdoor Sensor: A small sensor mounted outside your home measures the real-time air temperature.
• Heating Curve: The boiler uses a preset mathematical curve to match outdoor temperatures to ideal radiator water temperatures.
• Continuous Modulation: Instead of blasting water at maximum heat until the house is hot and then turning off, the boiler runs gently and continuously at a lower, steady level.
The point is however, this happens anyway. The return water temperature to the boiler tells the boiler what temperature the output water needs to be.

This is done to ensure the return water is cool enough to ensure the latent heat is extracted from the flue gases, so the boiler is modulated.

The problem arises where the boiler is turned off and back on by an external control, each time that happens, the boiler reverts to full output, so either an electrical modulation control, or a water modulation control is required to keep return water cool enough.

But if the boiler can sense the outside temperature then it has another way to know how hot the output water needs to be.

However, what ever method is used, the boiler needs to be the correct size for the home.

The boiler needs to do two things, one is to maintain the homes temperature which clearly depends on how well insulated the home is, and two to reheat the home when it has cooled down. For the latter it depends how many rooms are reheated at a time, and how fast you want them re-heating, and when one has a large home, then it is likely all rooms will not need heating at the same time, so radiator output needs to likely be twice the output to the boiler.

However, looking at my own house, the radiators are only about equal to boiler, so if the boiler can't modulate down to the size of the radiators being used at the time, it is forced to use a mark/space ratio and keep switching on/off.

Now I know my living room although quite large, can be maintained with a 750 watt oil filled radiator. And I have not seen many boilers which can modulate that much.
 
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I have viewed a few debates as to the effectiveness of weather compensation, but to know how valid, one needs to know if installed A1 to start with.

So if the boiler has no TRV on the circuit, and a simple on/off thermostat, I am sure weather compensation will help, but if on the other hand, you have all linked TRV heads and OpenTherm connection to the boiler, the gain if any of having weather compensation is unlikely to be measurable. If it even does anything.

It is like the arguments for heat pumps, if the gas or oil installation was A1 to start with, then a heat pump is unlikely to save any money, as gas and oil are so much cheaper to electric, however if the gas or oil were installed poorly, and the heat pump install is A1 plus some off-peak supply is also used to reduce costs with the heat pump, then they can save money against what they replaced.

Of course you can power a heat pump with other fuels, I have seen oil powered heat pumps, but the government has changed the rules, so generators are classed as road vehicles, so have to use DERV, which has resulted in higher tax on the fuel.
 
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Countryfan brings a lot of knowledge to the forum. A snide remark like that is out of order.
i don't doubt that he might, but that's your opinion. I'm not looking for a fight here i merely asked a question, all my reasons were clearly spelled out why i did what i did so why don't we keep it professional and keep our personal thoughts to ourselves and if you've nothing to offer, then don't get involved.
 
i don't doubt that he might, but that's your opinion. I'm not looking for a fight here i merely asked a question, all my reasons were clearly spelled out why i did what i did so why don't we keep it professional and keep our personal thoughts to ourselves and if you've nothing to offer, then don't get involved.
There is a section called combustion chamber which can only be accessed if the poster is gassafe. Gentle question brings a lot of expertise to that section. Lot of registered guys do not come to general plumbing due to combative attitude of some posters when told something.
 
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