Ideal Mexico 2 from 20th century - is flush safe to use

[dormermike]

Hi

I am doing some work to the heating system of my house, which was put in around 1994 but the boiler appears fairly old, maybe older than that (house was extended 1994). In taking rads off there is some black sludge in the bottom but not much. Heating system in general seems to be in good nick and the pipework is nice and shiny.

I thought as I am draining it down i'll put some flush in, but someone mentioned that it has to be safe for the metal inside the boiler, hence my question - is there a particular flush I should use for this boiler, and is it likely to be better a case of it aint broke so dont try to fix it....

Thanks
Mike

 

[DP]

Stick with Fernox and Sentinel. You cannot gop wrong. follow the maker's instruction word for word.

 

[45yearsagasman]

With that old girl I would not be chemically treating it. Instead, flush each rad independently. You say the system is working ok. If all you have is a small amount of black in the rads then there's no need to do any thing other than inhibitor when you refill.

 

[Agile]

If you are taking rads off anyway then take each outside and set upright at a slope of about 10 degrees and run a hose from mains water into the highest end to wash out the black sludge.

Then refit and add X100 inhibitor.

Tony

 

[dormermike]

Thanks chaps, I have 2 litres of x100 here ready to go in so i'll avoid the flush I think.

Out of interest, whats the likely risk to the old girl, cause a leak?

 

[Agile]

I dont know what flush you are going to avoid. But I do recommend you take my advice.

Unless you live in a castle ( which you obviously dont with that boiler ) then you only need to add ONE bottle of inhibitor.

The wrong date in your heading can be corrected by editing!

Tony

 

[dormermike]

Sorry I meant that i'd avoid the chemical flush as stated above and do each rad independently. Presumably the chemical flush could harm the boiler and hence avoid it, and also why i was curious what damage might be done.

I am taking your advice, as you advised flushing rads independently:

If you are taking rads off anyway then take each outside and set upright at a slope of about 10 degrees and run a hose from mains water into the highest end to wash out the black sludge.

Then refit and add X100 inhibitor.

Whats wrong with that boiler? Its old but its simple, and powerful (33-36kw).

House has 15 rads and the x100 is good for 10 rads per litre according to the blurb, and overdosing doesnt matter.

EDIT: overdosing

 

[45yearsagasman]

Depending on boiler size those are a sectional cast iron heat exchanger, and the sections are sealed together with gaskets/tie rods. Usually very reliable, but your boiler is getting on and best left alone. Just get a good service done every year. 2 litres of inhibitor will be fine for 15 rads.

 

[Agile]

Whats wrong with that boiler? Its old but its simple, and powerful (33-36kw).

House has 15 rads and the x100 is good for 10 rads per litre according to the blurb, and overdosing doesnt matter.

The dosage is one litre per 100 litre of system. Most larger systems in 3-4 bed houses are about 80 litres. But it all depends on the volume and size of your rads.

Its better to put in whats required and keep some back and add say 100 cc every years as a topup.

Your boiler is old, inefficient but reliable. A condensing boiler would probably save you about 20-30% on your ever increasing gas bill!

Tony

 

[dormermike]

Whats wrong with that boiler? Its old but its simple, and powerful (33-36kw).

House has 15 rads and the x100 is good for 10 rads per litre according to the blurb, and overdosing doesnt matter.

The dosage is one litre per 100 litre of system. Most larger systems in 3-4 bed houses are about 80 litres. But it all depends on the volume and size of your rads.

Its better to put in whats required and keep some back and add say 100 cc every years as a topup.

OK thanks. There are 15 rads, most of them are doubles and the one in the lounge is enormous - 3m long and a double. Good idea on topping up, i'll put 1.5 litres in and keep some back.

Your boiler is old, inefficient but reliable. A condensing boiler would probably save you about 20-30% on your ever increasing gas bill!

Tony

My gas bill for jan-mar was approx £500 for gas. So with a 30% saving I reckon i'll save max 450 per year, and am looking at around 3k to change boiler, so i've been told. So i'm looking at approx 6 years to break even.

Doesn't seem worth it to me, I don't even have a thermostat in the lounge so I think that'll save a bit of gas, extending the break-even point even further... and then, how long do new boilers last?

Or are my sums wrong - I just cant see the case for upgrading but happy to be proven incorrect.

But yeah, gas prices only going one way I agree!

 

[Agile]

Depending on your layout it should be possible for an independent to replace the boiler for about £1600-£1800. £3000 would be a BG price.

Having no room thermostat is madness! A wireless one costs less than £100 and can be fitted by a competent DIYer!

Gas prices are increasing by perhaps 15% every year. That totally sways the calculations.

Rather than look for a payback time period, why not consider it as an investment. Spend £1800 plus controls and make it £2000 and get a return of £450pa giving a return on capital of perhaps 22%. Better than Barclays!

A well chosen new boiler should last 10-15 years.

Tony

 

[dormermike]

Depending on your layout it should be possible for an independent to replace the boiler for about £1600-£1800. £3000 would be a BG price.

Having no room thermostat is madness! A wireless one costs less than £100 and can be fitted by a competent DIYer!

Gas prices are increasing by perhaps 15% every year. That totally sways the calculations.

Rather than look for a payback time period, why not consider it as an investment. Spend £1800 plus controls and make it £2000 and get a return of £450pa giving a return on capital of perhaps 22%. Better than Barclays!

A well chosen new boiler should last 10-15 years.

Tony

yeah im going to fit a room stat when I get time. Its a honeywell Y plan btw, and i've had conflicting info on whether the stat sits between the boiler and the timer or off the junction box - according to a wiring diagram on the boiler itself its off the junction box. That said I think the timer is fault and i'm looking about for a direct replacement for the 699 which includes a wireless stat.. if such a thing exists!

2k for a new boiler fitted i'd consider that - is that heat only do you think? I dont want a combi.

 

[Whitespirit66]

yeah im going to fit a room stat when I get time. Its a honeywell Y plan btw, and i've had conflicting info on whether the stat sits between the boiler and the timer or off the junction box

2k for a new boiler fitted i'd consider that - is that heat only do you think? I dont want a combi.

A room stat, wireless or wired, is a very easy fit. It will make your system more fuel efficient.

Basically, when the programmer turns the heating on, a terminal on it is energised, whilch then sends 240V to the white wire in the motorised valve. All a stat does is put a thermostatically controlled switch between the programmers terminal and the valve's white wire. You usually wire the stat into the wiring centre(junction box) for the ch system.

A combi boiler will be more expensive for you, as changes would need to be made to your ch system Stick with heat only.

Also, to keep your rads and boiler free from sludge, consider fitting a filter on the return pipe near the boiler. Fernox FT1 seems flavour of the month at present.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-tf1-total-filter-22mm/84311

 

[dormermike]

yeah im going to fit a room stat when I get time. Its a honeywell Y plan btw, and i've had conflicting info on whether the stat sits between the boiler and the timer or off the junction box

2k for a new boiler fitted i'd consider that - is that heat only do you think? I dont want a combi.

A room stat, wireless or wired, is a very easy fit. It will make your system more fuel efficient.

Basically, when the programmer turns the heating on, a terminal on it is energised, whilch then sends 240V to the white wire in the motorised valve. All a stat does is put a thermostatically controlled switch between the programmers terminal and the valve's white wire. You usually wire the stat into the wiring centre(junction box) for the ch system.

A combi boiler will be more expensive for you, as changes would need to be made to your ch system Stick with heat only.

Also, to keep your rads and boiler free from sludge, consider fitting a filter on the return pipe near the boiler. Fernox FT1 seems flavour of the month at present.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-tf1-total-filter-22mm/84311[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info that makes a lot of sense.

I am looking at boilers, i've seen one but now lost the link which has a hot water cylinder (about 80litres) built into it which would allow us to free up the airing cupboard space and turn it into a box room (its a fair sized airing cupboard!). That would be v handy. It also seemed to provide water pressure hot water, and a seperate circuit for towel warmer.

Curious to get some quotes in now..