Immersion Thermostats

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Hi,

I am new to this forum but hope you guys can help...

...I run a business with quite a few hot water cylinders. When the nature of the use changes (ie when we go from a busy period to a quieter period) I find that sometimes the safety cuts in on the immersion thermostats. No problem with it cutting in - it's there to do a job but usually the first I know about it is when the water is cold.

The question is, does anyone know of a thermostat with a light/led which is linked to the cut out so you can see at a glance whether the thermostat safety has cut out?

At the moment I try to listen until I hear the noise of the water heating or feel the pipe to make sure it's warm but it would be so much easier if there was a visual (or audible) way of knowing when the thermostat needed resetting.

Thanks.
 
All you need to do is add a neon across the safety cutout or even a lamp.

Best done away from the tank due to heat
 
Turn the ordinary thermostat down. If that doesn't resolve it then the thermostat is probably faulty and should be replaced.

Safety overheat cutouts shouldn't operate in normal service.
 
I would agree the safety cut out should only work where the water is heated from another source. For example where a back boiler is used as well as electric. After the baby was killed in Somerset when the flimsy plastic tank failed there was a lot more attention paid to heating water, where there are multi heaters then normally a much stronger header tank is used, able to hold boiling water without deforming. See this report Often thermal setting plastic rather than the normal plastic many are actually steel. Where the header tank is the flexible plastic as shown here
_44346269_203tank.jpg
then non resettable over temperature fuses are used, once these go then the whole thermostat needs replacing.

You say it is part of a business so may be something special, but with "quite a few hot water cylinders" they would all need to trip to get cold water. Unless not connected together, if not part of a multi-source heating system then the thermostat should not have re-settable buttons. Clearly if the back boiler causes the trip to activate then you don't want to replace the thermostat for electric heating, but if the electric heating causes it to trip, then swap thermostat every time.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I should have said, the cylinders are not connected, feeding separate areas. I have double and single immersion cylinders like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/rm-indire...tracking url&gclid=CM3Ny9bk8M4CFU4o0wodDJsEvg

So it is possible for me to be in a situation where the cut out has kicked in and I only have one immersion feeding the area so I get cold water.

It doesn't happen very often but I was just interested to know whether any companies are making thermostats with indicators to visually show when the safety has cut in as this would save me some hassle?

Thanks
 
Also, all the thermostats are set at 60 degrees. I can't lower them and meet legionnaires requirements as far as I'm aware.
 
That shouldn't be happening. What temperature is the water when this happens?
 
I'm sorry but I'm not sure as the first I know there is a problem is when I have cold water.
 
Maybe I should look at changing all the thermostats then???
This doesn't just happen to one thermostat but has happened to most of them over the last couple of years so I don't think I can put it down to one being faulty but maybe I have an unreliable/low quality brand?
I am not sure what make of thermostats I currently have but what is a good reliable brand to go for?
 
We had terrible problems a few years ago with Backer stats, I think there was a bad batch. We mostly use Cotherm stats now and no longer have any problems, though it would be nice if you could buy them with temperatures marked on them.

Poor electrical connections to the stats can also cause heating at the terminals to the point of tripping the overheat stat, though discolouration of the wires is often visible in this case.

If you do replace that stats it is essential that they are replaced with the correct type, including length and operating position.
 
I have checked and mine are all Backer.

Thanks everyone you have all been really helpful.
 

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