Infill VS New Wall Question

[padstar]

I am removing an existing HW cylinder cupboard to enlarge the rooms it "sits" within. Currently the door to the room and the cupboard both come off the main landing. When complete there will just be one door going into the one room. The existing walls are brickwork which is my preference over studwork generally but not a must.

My original plan wast to just remove the door frame from the cupboard and either block up or infill with stud work but i am concerned that this will leave a week wall given that the walls to the cupboard are being removed and these must have added some stability. I am mindful that this is a small area of wall with 2 openings in it currently.

Should I;

1) Infill doorway in stud (will this for ever crack along the joint of existing brick and new stud when skimmed over)
2) Infill doorway in block
3) Remove wall to area marked and rebuild in full tying it into the supporting walls at either end with wall ties.

Help much appreciated.

 

[IT Minion]

The first thing to check is if the cupboard is structural in any way. Are there any joists that rest on the walls being removed? I'd be surprised if it does provide any such services but I am not a structural engineer.

I'd do that in studwork, it's not worth the effort to brick it up imo and the redecorating needed after taking the entire wall out would be significant. But I am deeply lazy.

 

[padstar]

Sorry i should have put that on the initial thread, the walls being removed are not load bearing.

The entire house is being renovated so the making good is not an issue, i just dont want to be forever going back making good cracks. If i infill the door with timber should l line with plasterboard before skimming or is there a better product that would prevent cracking? Whats the best method

 

[domdee]

You’re susceptible to cracks no matter what in my opinion. Unless you fully take existing plaster off down to brick and re-do the whole wall in one go. Timber studs is easier obviously but with timber expanding and shrinking this will create cracks. Unless you plaster boarded the full wall without joints near the old door hole and dot and dab to existing brickwork around the door. As well as screw to the timber obvs. What’s below? Supporting wall I’m guessing?

 

[noseall]

Those doors look like they are upside down, other than the fact that the top rail is narrower than the bottom rail - so correct. The handles are deffo too high though.

 

[padstar]

I was thinking to take the plaster off that entire wall and rebuild the bit coloured in brickwork then plaster the entire lot.

 

[domdee]

how far does the wall continue to the left? might as well do the full lot?

 

[noseall]

I was thinking to take the plaster off that entire wall and rebuild the bit coloured in brickwork then plaster the entire lot.

Makes sense.

 

[noseall]

how far does the wall continue to the left? might as well do the full lot?

He'd have to deal with the archies around the other casing. It may be wise to feather in if he can, but finishing at an abutment affords the best scar free result.

 

[padstar]

Wall finishes just to the left of the photo and all the frames are being renewed so no issues with plastering.

 

[noseall]

Wall finishes just to the left of the photo and all the frames are being renewed

Look at slightly wider casings if possible to allow for the extra plaster finishes. Make sure that before buying the new wider casings that they accommodate not only any additional plaster thickness but deal with any new cabling or pipes etc, potentially making the plaster thicker.

Its a long winded way of saying plumbing and electrics first - new casings second.

 

[padstar]

Will do. I have a false wall running through the house that most o fthe M&E will be routed within and will be cutting in all new electrical runs before frames and plastering. Thanks everyone