is expanded foam structure to support a door frame

[ETAF]

Hi All,
This maybe the wrong forum

I have been working on my porch and about to retile
I have removed a lot of the tiles now , and found that the bottom part of the door frame , has been held up with expanding foam

I removed the tiles and some foam , and found that the void went back past the lower door frame and reached the hall floating floor , with some rot to the end of the chipboard

Is expanding foam a suitable structural material to support an entire door and side window frame

images show the situation i'm in and propped up with blocks at the moment.

Would i be best just to fill with expanded foam again after tiling.

I will be cover the concrete in a bitumen paint, before i put the next screen down at a slope and then retile , posted about that before

My plan was to paint with bitumen to waterproof and then put a tanalised wood sealed, and painted to support the middle of the door frame onto the existing concrete floor and make waterproof and then tile up to that, leaving a gap between the bottom of the frame and tiles a which the back would be sealed and waterproof
and the wood would provide the support to the door frame onto the concrete floor, sounds to me more permanent , BUT its been like this for at least 20+years (mother-in-law was in the house since 1997 and did not change) , although because the tiles in the corner sloped towards the door and not away, filled with water, maybe its OK

clear and reinstate the drip channel which was filled with foam

But if i can just retile under the door frame and then fill with foam , that would be much easier , but would it be watertight and structural supporting the door and side windows


thoughts

 

[Notch7]

Its normal practice to use wedge packers at each fixing point and then foam up after -so you may find there are fixings.

being as its a single door there may be no fixings through the cill -just the sides and maybe where the sidelight is.

 

[ETAF]

Thanks for the very fast reply
Not looked down the sides yet , will do that thursday when i take all the sides off
no nothing along the bottom at all, removed all the foam now , and have propped up with blocks, no plastic or wood supports anywhere along
and nothing fixed down onto the bottom, i haven't pulled up the hall carpet yet, BUT the width back is abouth the same as the wqidth of the frame, so not even on the interior floor, although maybe a few MM on

its about a 45mm gap between bottom of frame and original concrete which was then tiles , which hopefully you can see

 

[big-all]

you dont normally fix top or bottom as bottom you have dpm top can be a lintel
yes you can fix but the load is hinge and lock side

 

[ETAF]

OK Thanks , that's good to know , NO DPM , that was much lower in the concrete/tile adhesive by the look of the black
And 45mm of foam
so i should be safe to pull out all my blocks when tiling and do the repair myself