Is this a 'Roof Sweat' problem and what is the answer?

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Some 6 years ago, with me helping a time served builder, we attached a brick extension as a garage with separate accommodation for a bedroom and shower room. Overall, the build is 30 x 18 feet, with 50mm cavity insulation enclosed by 100mm grey insulation blocks. The garage has 75mm PIR covered by 125mm concrete. This is separated from the 10x18 foot accommodation area by a single grey insulation block wall up top the roof for fire retardation and with a fire door. The floor in the accommodation area is suspended 18mm T&G. None of the ceiling voids have yet been plaster-boarded

To retain the view from an upstairs bedroom, we had the 75mm trusses manufactured to 20 degrees strengthened with horizontal and diagonal pieces + 25mm ply wood sarking boards.

Because of the shallow gradient, the sarking boards were covered in 2 layers of breathable membrane with a 225mm overlap. The 30x60 slates were fixed to a 110mm cover. There's also a glass fibre based gully running down some 20 feet alongside the house. All of this was inspected at each stage and OKed by building regs, including the under eve venting.

Until this winter we'd not noticed any problems. But, several weeks ago, whilst taking down some garden furniture stored on the ceiling cross beams, I spotted a number of wet black stains bordered by a white chalk like edging in the angles where the rafters and board supporting cross beams meet, and a sort of black/grey marbling on a number of the boards. Both these situations were most prevalent at the corners not protected by the higher house wall. In fact, the pitch closest to the house from where warm air might be most abundant is completely clear of marking. Some of the long, heavy 100x50mm diagonal strengthening runners also have a black, soot like covering at intervals, perhaps resulting from where items had been stored on the ceiling beams

My first thoughts were that the driving wind and heavy rainfall this winter, combined with capillary action, had enabled water to be driven up under the membrane and perhaps tugged it sufficiently to cause damage at the nail points under the retaining vertical batons.

However, I'm now stating to learn that this could be the result of 'Roof Sweat....that is condensation!

I've carefully scrapped away one of the larger black areas and find that as this is removed, the normal wood colour is showing. The boarding is virtually dry now following the recent winds.

Assuming this is roof sweat, and given the rafter depth is only 75mm, the advice so far is to create a warm roof by first fixing a vapour barrier to the rafter underside and then fix 75mm PIR.

If this is the answer, what quality of vapour barrier should be used and how should it be fixed, bearing in mind that a supporting spar interrupts the sweep of the underside every 600mm?

Also how best to fix the PIR. Is 75mm OK, and does it need another vapour barrier on top?

Finally, if I fix the PIR to the rafter, will there be any issues if I add additional PIR at the ceiling level at a later date?

Grateful for all and any advice.





:confused:
 
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Hi Guys.....would be grateful for any thoughts any of you might have on my 'Roof Sweat' question :confused:
 
Could you take a few pics of the building in general showing pitch of roof, tile type etc...
 
in case it is condensation, what sources of moisture are in the extension, and how is it ventilated?

Is there any wet washing?
 
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A garage with a shower and bedroom?

I bet it's the chauffeur breathing that's caused it.
 
The area designated for the bathroom and bedroom is accessed directly from the kitchen. This new area is separated from the garage by a floor to roof apex 100mm thermoblock wall containing a fire door. Presently, the only constraint from the kitchen to the new accommodation area is a heavy curtain. However, the hob has an overhead extraction hood. Laundry is in the utility room well away from the kitchen.

Although fully double glazed, the 'garage' area only has thick polythene over the doorways as I've still in mind to convert the whole of the extension into a granny annex.

I'm still unsure whether the problem is rain leakage or condensation. If the latter, I guess it can only be resulting from cold, moist laden air becoming warmed by the higher temperature of the kitchen.

Although separated, both the garage and accommodation areas have suffered. The strangest part is that the roofing in the accommodation area closest to the kitchen shows no sign of the black or grey marbling.

I'll try and attach some pics if someone can give me step by step instructions on how to attach these from my pc.

:confused:
 
The kitchen/breakfast room is 20 x 12 feet. In addition to the door sized opening to the new build, it has one door to the hallway + 1 4x4ft & 1 4x6ft windows + 7x7ft French doors to the garden. Only the French doors have vents.

The hob is some 7ft from the curtained opening, which is some 15ft from the hallway door.

Both the interior and exterior 20ft walls have 25mm PIR set into timber framing over covered with foil backed plasterboard which have had two coats of gyprock finishing. The floor has 75mm PIR under concrete & tiles. Also, the ceiling void has mineral wool inserted. As a result, the kitchen is quite warm from one large rad fitted on the 12ft interior wall. In fact, its possible sometimes to feel the warmth hovering in the room. Although, on a cold and windy day, there's a draft from the new accommodation area as the air flows in from the void under its timbered floor when the curtain's drawn back. :confused:
 
Sorry JohnD, I should have added that both the accommodation and garage areas are ventilated through plastic 10mm slotted under eave units set below the sarking board level along the full 30ft length on one side. Because the new build is set against 20ft the house, only 10ft of venting is on the other side.
 
Sorry, haven't managed to conquer attaching pics yet and will be away for the next 7 days.

Will try and attach them on my return.

Thanks again for all your help in this troubling issue of ' have I got to reroof with new boards or do I need to insulate their undersides'?? :confused:
 
Sorry for not getting back sooner....problem with car was more pressing!!

I'm still trying work out how to load pics.

Meantime, on the basis that its condensation, I've been looking into the warm roof requirements. As the roofing spars are only 65mm deep, its not possible to friction-fix 75mm PIR> Therefore, I'm considering attaching the PIR to the underside of the rafters to which a vapour barrier will need to be attached.

To vent the space below, I'm looking at inserting air bricks high up in the gable wall below the insulation/VB.

Am I right so far? And, is the use of PIR in a garage acceptable to BC?

Grateful for any comments.
 
Hi Guys

I've also been checking the roof void in the main part of the house. This was re-slated at the time of the extension. The breathable membrane was fitted too tight by the builder, resulting in reduced ventilation with has caused condensation to form on the membrane's underside, water staining the purlings.

I've spotted several products that can overcome this by pushing apart the membrane on the overlap.

I've already identified a supplier of the spring loaded plastic type, but, at £3 a pop this is a bit dear.

The other type is a wedge shaped polystyrene piece that similarly pushes the overlay open. This looks to be much more affordable.solution. They are featured at www.dgi.org.uk. The trouble is that this company only wants to fit them rather than supply to DIYers.

Does anyone know of a stockist from which these can be purchased?
 
Slates at 20 degrees.......surely that's the problem?!

I've heard many architects say 2 layers of breathable membrane will be sufficient......but what does that mean? The slates are just for decoration? The breather membrane will rot over time. Leaving a leaky roof!!

A "proper and sufficient" vapour barrier needs to be completely air tight and self sealing if fixed through.
 

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